Bitraf - Brukerbidrag [nb]

Småjobbar

2021-10-19T18:25:52Z

Kinginamoto: /* Things that are in progress */

When you enter, look straight ahead, and by the stairs there is a flip chart and a whiteboard with småjobber that can be done to help Bitraf get up to speed! There are whiteboard pens available there to mark off when done and please put your name so we can say thanks later!

==Things that need to be done==
* Are on the whiteboard, pls mark when done and put your name!
*Anything you don't know/understand, can ask Yoshi or Thomas Winther on Slack. Other members may also know!

== Things that are in progress ==

Here are the responsible people for each section of Bitraf, ask these lovely people what can be done/needs to be done/plans etc for these areas, Slack the best place

*Sewing room - Eweyln & Trude
*Bioraf - Heikki
*Metal verksted - Trym & Nikolai Kolstad
*Casting/Molding - Geir Sire
*Laser room -
*Shopbot/CNC. -
*Smut Cave. - Elias Bakken/Jensa
*3D printer room - Hermann

==Things that have been done==

[[Category:BV9]]

Småjobbar

2021-10-19T18:25:28Z

Kinginamoto: /* Things that are in progress */

When you enter, look straight ahead, and by the stairs there is a flip chart and a whiteboard with småjobber that can be done to help Bitraf get up to speed! There are whiteboard pens available there to mark off when done and please put your name so we can say thanks later!

==Things that need to be done==
* Are on the whiteboard, pls mark when done and put your name!
*Anything you don't know/understand, can ask Yoshi or Thomas Winther on Slack. Other members may also know!

== Things that are in progress ==

Here are the responsible people for each section of Bitraf, ask these lovely people what can be done/needs to be done/plans etc for these areas, Slack the best place

Sewing room - Eweyln & Trude
Bioraf - Heikki
Metal verksted - Trym & Nikolai Kolstad
Casting/Molding - Geir Sire
Laser room -
Shopbot/CNC. -
Smut Cave. - Elias Bakken/Jensa
3D printer room - Hermann

==Things that have been done==

[[Category:BV9]]

Småjobbar

2021-10-19T18:21:25Z

Kinginamoto:

Småjobbar

2021-10-19T18:21:00Z

Kinginamoto:

Småjobbar

2021-10-18T18:20:51Z

Kinginamoto:

When you enter, look straight ahead, and by the stairs there is a flip chart and a whiteboard with småjobber that can be done to help Bitraf get up to speed! There are whiteboard pens available there to mark off when done and please put your name so we can say thanks later!

When a job is done, move it from the "to do" to the "done" list, and put your name (or username if you prefer, use a link with the "User:" prefix) behind it. If needed, use the "in progress" section.

==Things that need to be done==
* Put PG4 office dividers on Finn.no, 200 kr pr piece. Ask Thomas if you need more info.
* lightbox in workshop - Once fixed, carry it down to the lab and find a home for it that adds to the lab hygge.
* The trash gathering in between the kitchen and the exit needs driven to a recycling station, at least, I THINK its trash. -sky
* electronics trash - the trash (electronics, hazardous waste, paint buckets) next to the kitchen needs to be brought to the Fredensborg recycling station (check opening hours).

== Things that are in progress ==

==Things that have been done==

[[Category:BV9]]

Småjobbar

2021-10-18T18:20:28Z

Kinginamoto:

When you enter, look straight ahead, and by the stairs there is a flip chart and a whiteboard with småjobber that can be done to help Bitraf get up to speed! There are whiteboard pens available there to mark off when done and please put your name so we can thanks later!

When a job is done, move it from the "to do" to the "done" list, and put your name (or username if you prefer, use a link with the "User:" prefix) behind it. If needed, use the "in progress" section.

==Things that need to be done==
* Put PG4 office dividers on Finn.no, 200 kr pr piece. Ask Thomas if you need more info.
* lightbox in workshop - Once fixed, carry it down to the lab and find a home for it that adds to the lab hygge.
* The trash gathering in between the kitchen and the exit needs driven to a recycling station, at least, I THINK its trash. -sky
* electronics trash - the trash (electronics, hazardous waste, paint buckets) next to the kitchen needs to be brought to the Fredensborg recycling station (check opening hours).

== Things that are in progress ==

==Things that have been done==

[[Category:BV9]]

Småjobbar

2021-10-18T16:49:28Z

Kinginamoto:

When a job is done, move it from the "to do" to the "done" list, and put your name (or username if you prefer, use a link with the "User:" prefix) behind it. If needed, use the "in progress" section.

==Things that need to be done==
* Put PG4 office dividers on Finn.no, 200 kr pr piece. Ask Thomas if you need more info.
* lightbox in workshop - Once fixed, carry it down to the lab and find a home for it that adds to the lab hygge.
* The trash gathering in between the kitchen and the exit needs driven to a recycling station, at least, I THINK its trash. -sky
* electronics trash - the trash (electronics, hazardous waste, paint buckets) next to the kitchen needs to be brought to the Fredensborg recycling station (check opening hours).

== Things that are in progress ==

==Things that have been done==

[[Category:BV9]]

Laser

2020-08-25T01:32:07Z

Kinginamoto: /* Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser */

== Lokasjon ==
Laserkutterne er plassert i eget rom i verkstedet.
Den røde laseren er plassert nærmest inngangen til rommet (til venstre når du står foran den), den blå laseren er plassert nærmest nødutgangen (til høyre når du står foran laserkutterne).

== Bruk av laseren ==
[[Fil:20180308 210330 Laserkutting.jpg|miniatyr|Laserkuttede produkter i Bitrafs demohylle]]

=== Tilgang ===

Laserkutterne er kun tilgjengelig *for medlemmer og kontorplass-brukere* på Bitraf, altså ikke for gjester. [https://p2k12.bitraf.no/join Bli medlem!]

Maskinene er utstyrt med [[Tilgangskontroll|tilgangskontroll]], du må sjekke ut maskinen før bruk, og sjekke den inn igjen etter bruk.

Du må ha *gjennomført kurs* i grunnleggende bruk og sikkerhet før du kan bruke laseren.
Kurs legges ut på [http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/ meetup.com/bitraf] jevnlig.

Du forplikter deg også til å forlate laser-rommet rent og ryddig – uansett hvordan rommet var når du kom.

Er du medlem uten kurs, men har behov for å få [[gravering|gravert]] eller skjært noe, kontakt Thomas, [[Bruker:Jensa|Jensa]], Nikolai eller Jon.

Hvis du heller vil betale noen for å utføre en jobb kan du kontakte [[Bruker:Nikolai|Nikolai]] eller legge ut en melding på Slack eller Facebook-gruppen vår.

=== Booking ===

Laserne bookes på forhånd via en google kalender. Se her for hvordan du får tilgang til kalenderen: [[Booking|https://bitraf.no/wiki/Booking]]

=== Kommersiell bruk ===

Dersom man gjør *kommersielle jobber*, betaler man 350 NOK/time (+moms) for bruk av laseren.
Kommersiell jobb er en jobb hvor man enten får betalt for å lage noe eller gjør produksjon av noe man selger selv. Dette bidrar til kostnadene ved vedlikehold, samt for å ikke urettferdig konkurrere med andre som leverer tjenester rundt laser, og at ikke bruken blir monopolisert av noen enkelte som driver gratis masseproduksjon.

Kommersiell bruk betales normalt i [[Bitmart]] med kort. Legg inn epost så får du kvittering på epost.
Dersom du trenger en faktura, kan du istedet skriv en epost til "kasserer (at] bitraf.no" og spesifiser antall timer bruk og dato.

=== Arbeidsområde ===

Rød Laser:
680 mm * 480 mm

Blå laser:
880 mm * 570 mm

I [[Bitmart]] selges 4 mm bjørkefinér i formatene 680 mm * 480 mm og 540 mm * 480 mm. I tillegg finnes ymse andre materialer i 540x480mm. Poppelfinér var tidligere til salgs i ferdigkappa størrelser til laseren, men fås nå kun i stor plate (2440x1220mm).

=== Autolaser på felles PC ===

Autolaser är software som vi använder för att göra och sända jobb till våra lasers. Autolaser finns installerat och konfigurerat på felles PCn i laser-rummet med maskinprofiler för både RÖD och BLÅ laser.

==== MERK: lag i AutoLaser er globale ====
'''''Hvis man jobber på felles PC og bytter mellom dokumentene, så merk at lagene i Autolaser som brukes til å styre effekt og brenntid, er globale. Endrer man således ett av dem (svart, rødt, hva som helst) og så bytter til et annet dokument i Autolaser som bruker det samme laget (typisk med svart), så vil disse innstillingene også endres i alle andre dokumenter.'''''

=== Autolaser på egen PC ===

* <s>[http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp Last ned autolaser]</s> - død lenke - [http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/Download/index/l/en/id/18.html Last ned autolaser], ta den via [https://www.virustotal.com/gui/home/url virustotal.com]. Kopier av AutoLaser ligger også [https://karlsbakk.net/autolaser/ her] (last også ned med virustotal).

* Maskininställningar. För att lasern skall kutte rett vei så må man ställa in i Autolaser vilket hörn av lasern som är nollpunkten (origo). Se bilde för instruks:
[[Fil:Origo setting.jpg|miniatyr|How to set origo in Autolaser]]

* Mer information finns i [https://halk.ru/forum/resources/49/download?version=49 Manualen till Autolaser]

== Steg ==

Dette er de grunnleggende stegene man går igjennom for å lage noe med laseren.

* 1) På forhånd: Lag eller last ned et design. Exporter til DXF
* 2) PC: Importer vektorfil (DXF)
* 3) PC: Lag verktøybaner
* 4) PC: Eksporter jobben til laser
* 5) Laser: Legg i materiale
* 6) Laser: Fokuser laseren
* 7) Laser: Sett jobb Origin
* 8) Laser: Kjør jobben
* 9) Laser: Ta ut materiale

=== 1a) Lag et design ===
Du kan bruke hvilken som helst software som kan eksportere til DXF filer (vektor).
Om programmet ikke kan eksportere direkte kan man bruke Inkscape eller lignende til å konvertere.

Eksempler på programmer som folk på Bitraf bruker. Noen av disse kjøres det kurs på innimellom.

* [https://inkscape.org/en Inkscape], enkelt 2D vektor. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD], avansert 2D/3D parametrisk solid modelling. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD], programmeringspråk for parametrisk 3D. Gratis+opensource
* SketchUp, enkel 3D direct modelling. Gratis
* Rhino, avansert 2D/3D direct modelling. Studentlisens: ca 9000kr
* Adobe Illustrator, enkelt 2D vektor. 7 dagers prøvelisenser. Studentlisens: ?

=== 1b) Last ned design ===

Du finner en del laser/CNC design rundt på nettet, om ikke på langt nær like mye som for 3d-printing.
Søk for eksempel på "laser" eller "lasercut" på [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].

=== 2. Importer vektorfil ===

* Start programmet AutoLaser (ligger på skrivebordet på laptopen i laser-rummet).
* Importer filen din. File -> Import, velg fil, velg "metric"
* Du burde nå se den importerte filen i dokumentvinduet
* Verifisere at størrelsen på importert geometrien, ved å velge noe og se størrelsen (width/height) på verkstøylinja.

Du kan også dobbeltklikke på en .DXF fil i filutforskeren for å starte Autolaser.
=====Benefits and drawbacks of different imported file formats in Autolaser=====
* .DXF-files support layers but breaks all loops which can cause problems when carving. (Can sometimes be healed using "Unite near" but not always.) When exporting DXF from Rhino, use setting "Natural" - lines will not break.
* .PLT-files support closed geometry but not layers (Can be solved by exporting a file per layer and cut-and-pasting them back together in Autolaser.)

=== 3. Laging av verktøybaner ===

Merk: Instillinger for speed/power avhenger av materiale. Bruk tabellen lenger ned som utgangspunkt!

Enkel: Ett sett med instillinger (penn) i jobben

* Sjekk at all geometrien har samme farge (sort er standard).
* Dobbeltklikk på instillingene for fargen i listen "Param" i høyre sidepanel.
* Velg enten "Cut" (vektor) eller "Carve" (raster).
* Sett passende "Cut speed".
* Sett Work/Corner Power 1.
* Sett Work/Corner Power 2 til samme som 1.
* Sjekk at "Free speed" er satt til 100 mm/s

"Free Speed" (jog speed) er hastigheten når laseren er av, og hodet flytter seg mellom områder som skal lasres.

"Corner Power" er effekten i hjørner.
Ved å redusere Corner Power relativt til Work Power kan man få bedre.
Feks 10-20% lavere Corner kontra Work Power.

TODO: test og dokumenter Carve/raster opsjoner

Avansert: Flere instillinger (penner) i en jobb. Feks [[gravering]] + kutting

* Velg geometri som skal ha andre instillinger, trykk på penn (1-16) på nedre verktøylinje.
* Geometrien vil nå få en annen farge, og en ny penn-instilling vil dukke opp i listen til høyre.
* All geometri med en viss farge vil bruk instillingene for den fargen/pennen

Ofte ønsker man å gravere først, deretter kutte ut. Dette fordi bitene kan flytte seg litt når man kutter ut. Du kan velge rekkefølge på "pennene" i jobben ved å bruke "Up" og "Down" i listen.

TODO: finn ut hvordan man kan lagre og åpne prosjektfiler (inkl penne-instillinger)

=== 4. Eksportér jobben til laseren ===

* Dobbeltsjekk 1) Riktige farger på all geometri.
* Dobbeltsjekk 2) Riktig hastighet/power på hver farge.
* Sjekk at laseren er skrudd på
* Sjekk at USB kabel mellom PC og laser er koplet til
* Kople til laseren i software. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Search". Skal stå "COM6" når vellykket.
* Eksporter verktøybanene. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Download" -> "Doc to Mac". Tar noen sekunder. Laseren piper når ferdig overført.
* Den nye jobben skal nå vises som preview på laseren.

=== 5. Legg inn materiale ===

* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Kjør laserhodet litt opp. Axis -> U axis -> 20 (mm) -> Enter
* Legg i materialet. Vær forsiktig så du ikke dytter borti høydeproben på laserhodet

=== 6. Fokusering av laseren ===

Hver gang man legger inn materiale med ny tykkelse må man sette høyden på Z-aksen på nytt, for å få riktig fokus på laseren. Dette er viktig både for effektive kutt i tykke materialer, og for detaljert [[gravering]].

* Flytt hodet til der hvor materialet er for å fokusere høyden der.
* Legg vekter på materialet hvis det ikke er flatt nok. Ikke la laser hodet kollidere i vektene.
* Trykk på punktum (.) og deretter på Enter.

=== 7. Sett start-posisjon for jobben (Origin) ===

Man må velge hvor på maskinen nullpunktet for jobben skal være (Origin).
Dette vil bli posisjonen til koordinatet 0,0 i dokumentet.

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt riktig høyde/fokus!
* Kjør vognen til ønsket start posisjon.
* Trykk på origin knappen. Laseren piper for konfirmasjon.

=== 8. Kjør jobben ===

''Viktig: Du må alltid være tilstede når maskinen kjører, grunnet brannfare!''
Merk: Dersom noe uforventet oppstår, trykk på nødstoppen i front!

Hvis det slår flammer ut av materialet, slå av avsuget og ta CO2-slukkeren som står til høyre for laseren. Dra ut splinten på slukkeren, løft og rett slukkeren mot brannstedet og klem sammen håndtaket. Dette vil kvele all ild (og også deg om du prøver å puste dette inn).

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt Origin
* Sjekk at du treffer den riktige delen av materialet ved å trykke Range og deretter Enter (viser ytterkantene av omerådet du skjærer)
* Start avtrekksviften (RØD: Egen switch på laser, BLÅ: Knapp på avtrekksboxen)
* Trykk på "Start"

Når jobben er ferdig piper den.

Avansert: Pause

Du kan bruke "Pause/Run" knappen for pause, feks for å sjekke nøyere hvordan det gikk.
Den stopper umiddelbart, og man kan forsette ved å trykke den Pause igjen.
Trykk ESC for å avbryte jobben når man er i Pause modus.

Man kan endre Speed/Power innstillinger når man er i Pause. Det kan bruker for å tilpasse dersom man ser at man ikke kutter helt igjennom materiale eller gravering blir for lys/kraftig.

Endring i instillinger gjelder for en penn/lag. På slutten av ett lag vil den spørre om man ønsker å lagre endringene til fil.

=== 9. Ta ut materiale ===

* Skru av avtrekksviften
* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Åpne lokket til laseren
* Dobbeltsjekk at du har kuttet helt igjennom, og bitene er løse
* Ta ut platen. Vær forsiktig at du ikke dytter bordi autoproben på hodet!
* Fjern eventuelle biter som ligger på honeycomben

Om ikke du har fått kuttet helt igjennom kan du kjøre jobben på nytt.

== Vedlikehold ==
[[Laser-vedlikehold]]

[[Laserfilter]]

== Software ==
[[Laser-software]]

== Innstillinger for forskjellige materialer ==
Forskjellige innstillinger må brukes på forskjellige materialer.

Generellt om hastighet
* 20 mm/s ger alltid pena linjer
* 30 mm/s ger ett lætt skelvende linjer
* 40 mm/s ger merkbart skelvende linjer
* etc...

=== Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Akryl 4mm (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema),: 15mm/sec power 100%
* Akryl 5mm (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]],: 9mm/sec power 60%
* Akryl 8mm (klar),: 7mm/sec power 100%
* Akryl 3mm (speil), fra Bitmart,: 10mm/sec power 76% OBS! Legg alltid speil-flaten ned, så du kutter på baksiden av speilet!
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 25 mm/s, power 100%
* Silkboard 1mm (fra Bitmart): 42 mm/s, corner power 12%, work power 20% (bruk maskeringsteip for å unngå brennmerke)
* MDF 2mm (fra Bitmart),: 16mm/sec power 35%
* Papir Fabriano Tiziani 160g (fra Bitmart):
** Tekst (ikke kutt): 30 mm/s, min power 1.5%, max power: 6.0
** Kutt: 30 mm/s, min power 20%, max power: 20

=== Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 10% (graverer kun i overflaten, for figurer)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 80%, Carve accuracy 0.1 mm (svært grov gravering. går nesten gjennom hele marerialet)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 40% (for tekst)
* Transperent: 100 mm/s, power 14% (for PCB-stensil. Bruk vått ark på begge sider)
* Akryl 5mm (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], : 120mm/s horiUNI carve accuracy 0.035 v/100%
* Eik heltre: 110mm/s, power 22% horiUNI carve accuracy 0.049

=== Kutting gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, 2mm: 9mm/sec v/100%
* MDF, 6mm: 5mm/sec v/100%
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100% (95%corner)
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 6mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar, fra [[Bitmart]]/Plastkompaniet), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (blå), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), 5mm: 8mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra Finn Løken AS, 10mm: 2mm/sec v/100%
* Styren (billigste 'plastglass' fra Biltema), 2mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Kryssfiner 3,5 mm 9 mm/s v/100%
* Polyester tekstil: 30 mm/s v/2%
* Denim tekstil (fra olabukse, sort): 30 mm/s v/15%
* Gummi 5mm (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 2.5 mm/s
* PETG 2.5 mm (Ikea Kuggis boks): 15 mm/s 100%
* Papp 3 mm: 30 mm/s v/50%
* Lær 2mm 15mm/s v/100% (95% corner) (http://www.chemsen.no/m%c3%b8belhud-anchester.html)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Cut through all: Cut 20 mm/s 30% work 20% corner (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

=== Gravering gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, vektorgravering: 100mm/sec v/20%
* Akryl, rastergravering: 300mm/sec, accuracy 0.05mm v/5%
* Kryssfiner, vektorgravering(cut) 3,5 mm 20 mm/s v/10% (Snabbare ger stygge linjer)
* Poppelfineer (Oslo Fineer), 300mm/sec: v/10%
* Lær (brunt), vektorgravering, v/1%, 30mm/s, gir fine, litt under 1mm dype snitt
* Gummi dypt for stempel (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 30mm/sec v/30%
* Mylar stensil 0.5 mm: 300 mm/s v/40%, kutter helt igjennom
* Greeting card paper, vektorgravering: 30 mm/s 5-10%
* Greeting card paper, rastergravering: 300 mm/s 15% 0.1 mm (2-way)
* Ikea rødvinsglass, raster: 100 mm/s 50%
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Change colour: Carve 150 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 15% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Carve holes through sticker but leave back: Carve 300 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 50% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

'''NB!''' Da polykarbonat/Lexan både er vanskelig å kutte med vår type laser og avgir [https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisfenol_A Bisfenol A] når det kuttes, har vi valgt å fjerne dette plastmaterialet fra listen med plasttyper godkjent for bruk på Bitraf

=== Specialanpassad fokushøjde ===

<big>Tykke material</big>

For å kutte raskest/renest mulig kan avanserte brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er i midten av materialet i stede for på toppen:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og reduser U verdien med halvparten av materialtykkelsen (default fokusavstånd ær 5.5 mm på BLÅ laser)
# Kutt sen med høyere hastighet en vanlig. Ekperimenter og dokumenter bra verdier på Wiki.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

<big>Gravering / Tynne material</big>

Før att får høyest mulig oppløsning och precision så kan brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er på toppen av materialet i stede for en bit ned i materialet:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og sett U verdien till 10 mm
# Nu kan du gravera mindre detaljer och cutta mer precist i tynna materialer som papp.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

=== Rastergravering ===

Før att rastergravering skall fungera så måste geometrin vara sluten. Prova anvænda "Unit near" om du bruker .dxf import och om det inte virker importera från en .plt fil.

Laseren kan ikke gravere gråtoner, men man kan gjøre en del triks for å emulere dette. Hvis man bare skal lage et "greit" bilde ut kan man lage et sort/hvitt bilde i et tegneprogram. Hvis dette ikke er altfor stort ( < 1500x1500 pixler? ) og man lagrer det som en 1-bit (to fargers) PNG, vil man kunne importere og gravere denne. Innstillingene som er brukt på Bitraf's sponsor-skilt (3mm hvit akryl med svart spraymaling) er: Carve 200mm/sec, Carve accuracy 0.050, Work power 25%

Hvis man trikser litt kan man lage flere slike og gravere i flere omganger for å få noe som ligner på gråtoner. Dette krever litt prøving og feiling, men hver gang man lasrer havner laseren mere ut av fokus og man får svartere og svartere brennmerker.

=== Kerf ===
Kerf<ref>[http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/what-is-laser-kerf Understanding the kerf of the laser]</ref> er den delen av materialet som laseren brenner bort, og som gir "slark" når du skal sette sammen deler. Kerf vil variere etter materialtype og -tykkelse. På Thingiverse finnes en modell<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84621 Laser Cutter Kerf Gauge]</ref> som du kan kutte ut i ønsket materiale for å finne ut nøyaktig hva kerf'en er.

=== [[Gravering]] på metaller ===
Thomas har en spray som tilhører Bitraf som kan brukes til å gravere på [[metallarbeid|metall]], både rustfritt stål og aluminium. Den heter LMM6000 og er dyr! Michael har visst også laget en DIY versjon av denne av (Glycol + Kritt)?

100% med 100 mm/s carving ser ut til å fungere bra!

== Rotary axis attachment: laser engraving and cutting round objects ==
The red laser has a rotary axis attachment. This means we can draw, engrave, and cut materials that are round.
===Important…===
<big>'''NEW guidelines: When installing the rotary axis inside the laser, place it with the chuck (spindle, heavy end, jaws, grip) to the LEFT. Why? Should you turn off and on the laser, the laser head will attempt to "home". Since one axis is now rotating, and only one axis moves the laser head, it will then "home" to the far right. IF the rotary axis thingamabob is placed with the chuck to the right, the laser head will crash into the chuck and potentially be seriously damaged.'''</big>
[[Fil:Placing rotary axis inside laser.jpg|left|thumb]]
 

===Prepare files: formulae===
The object is round. It spins at a certain speed depending on your settings. To account for this, the artwork needs to be "distorted" in the software so it will turn out correctly on the object. You need to know:
* Diameter of the object (at the place where you will engrave/cut)
* Length of the artwork

''drawing width/(object diameter / 3.14) = drawing width to use in autolaser''
===Example===
[[Fil:Example artwork.png|miniatyr|left|Example artwork]]
 
[[Fil:Example calculation and "distorting".png|miniatyr|venstre|example calculation and "distorting"]]
 
[[Fil:Tilt and mirror.png|miniatyr|venstre|tilt and mirror]]
 
[[Fil:Result.jpg|miniatyr|venstre|result]]
 

===Prepare laser===
[[Fil:Swap plugs for the rotary.jpg|miniatyr|Note the two plugs are attached to the same cable holder.]]
* Run the laser head to top right corner
* Lower the bed… a lot (U-)
* Remove the honeycomb
* Move laser head approx half way on the y axis
* TURN OFF the laser before opening the the bottom panel on the right side of the laser
* Swap connectors behind the panel (see image).
** Basically: there are two connectors (A and B) attached to each other (or rather: they come out of the same twisty-cable-holder-thing), and one is plugged in to the socket.
** Swap them
** Close the lid
** ALWAYS PUT the normal one BACK when finished. If someone didn't attend the Rotary-attachment training, they'll have NO idea why the laser isn't working.
* Turn the laser on. It should now be unable to "home" normally (go to the top right corner), as one axis now is the rotary, but will "home" on the Y axis, sending the laser head all the way over to the right side.
==== Rotation max/min ====
Even if the rotary attachment has no physical endpoints, the laser control software will have a max/and min position. You will probably want to do your work while the laser is in the middle of these points. This can be achieved by rotating the attachment using the up/down button to one end, counting the number of seconds it takes to rotate all the way to the other end, and then rotating it back approx half as many seconds as a max-min-movement takes. If you try to ''range'' or start a job while the laser is to close to the max or min positions you will get a ''outbound'' (out of bounds) error on the display panel.

[[Fil:Rotary attachment teeth.jpg|miniatyr]]

=== "Jaw" ===
Decide which teeth you need.
There are two types, each a set of three: expanding and contracting.
The expanding secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the inside out. (for concave glasses)
The contracting ones secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the outside in. (for convex glasses)

Both the expanding (inner diameter of work piece) and contracting (outer diameter of work piece) teeth have a work area (max/min diameter) of approx. 2.5cm to 7.5cm.

They are numbered, and marked:
* X for expanding (best for concave objects ends)
* O for contracting (best for convex objects ends)

==== How to attach ====

The teeth and the chuck key should be in a dedicated box on the tall shelf behind the door.
[[Fil:Teeth lining up in the center.jpg|miniatyr|teeth align tightly in the center]]
* To attach the teeth, place each of the three teeth in their ''correspondingly numbered slits 1, 2, 3.''
* The pointy end goes in towards the center (so that when fully tightened it forms a compact shape of three triangles)
* Hold them in place with one hand, with a finger on each.
* Use the chuck key and screw OUTWARDS. ONLY use the special chuck key that came with the rotary axis.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number two click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number three click.
* Here is the surprise: Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click again.
* Gently start screwing inwards.
* ''Screw all the way in,'' and visually check that the teeth align perfectly in the center. If they don't, your material will rotate off center, and potentially break your material, the attachment and/or the laser head. So if they don't line up perfectly, do it again.

===Place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser===
[[Fil:Connector for rotation attatchment.jpg|miniatyr|right|rotary attachment pin board]]
* Carefully place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser with the jaws (spindle, chuck, heavy end…) to the LEFT.
* Attach the coax cable from the rotary axis attachment to the connector ''inside'' the laser. When you stand in front of the laser, it is bottom right. The connector is marked with a yellow sticker: "rotary pinboard" (see image).
* From now on you must be VERY careful not to smash the laser head into stuff

Align the probe over the desired area and set focus point as normal, with .+enter.
To be super careful, drive the laser head away from the rotary axis attachment, and do a range test in an area where it will not smash into anything, should there be a … mishap. Pay careful attention to how the probe moves, and how the rotation moves. If it seems as expected, drive the laser head to the place where you want the job to begin. Note that you do not align with the ''probe'', but the laser.
 

=== Glass surface: Preparation ===
[[Fil:Red laser rotary glass damp paper towel.jpg|200px|right|miniatyr|Example wet paper towel. The towel should be more flush with the glass that in this picture.]]
Using a moist paper towel helps prevent the engraving area from becoming rough, and leads to a clear, white engraving result.
Before you start engraving, apply a moist single-layer paper towel to the glass. Make sure there are no air bubbles or overlaps. This would affect the engraved image.

We have so far had success with one ply from the two-ply towels from the bathrooms, damped liberally using a spray bottle (i.e. the fire-bottle in the laser room).
Do not spray water inside the laser.
 

===Suggested settings===
IKEA rødvinsglass, [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/lodraet-olglass-klart-glass-50209337/ IKEA beer glass], [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/oanvaend-olglass-klart-glass-70209336/ IKEA tall beer glass] raster: '''100 mm/s 50%'''

== Hvor kan du kjøpe materialer ==

Det finnes en god guide om hva slags materialer som kan brukes hos [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials AtxHackerspace].

Bitraf-medlem Peter Watz har mange års erfaring med Laser og har laget en god oversikt over materialer som er gode å bruke. Han kan også hjelpe deg med kommersielle jobber: [http://kreativ-laser.no/materialer/finer-og-treverk/ kreativ-laser.no]

=== [[Bitmart]] ===

Fra September 2015 har vi akrylplater til salgs i Bitmart, i diverse tykkelser og størrelser - til en veldig god pris.

Fra Desember 2015 har vi poppelfiner, 4mm og 6mm til salgs i Bitmart. Priser rundt 50 kr for en plate som passer i laseren.

=== Leverandorer ===

Plastcompaniet A/S på Alna, leverer akrylplater og annen plast, i større kvanta.

Man får også akrylplater på Biltema og Clas Ohlson, men da ganske dyrt.

Biltema selger "plastglass" som er Styren-plater. Disse lukter mindre enn Akryl når de skjæres, men får veldig lett stygge smeltede kanter.

Når det gjelder gravering/kutting av tre, anbefaler de som har erfaring at man skaffer seg "Flyfiner" eller "Poppelfineer". Oslo Finerfabrikk AS has dette, og mange andre materialer som kan være interessante.

Christ. Engebretsen & Søn AS holder til i Pilestredet 27 og har et godt utvalg av papp, kartong og papir https://www.tegne.no/

== Debugging / feilsøkning ==
* The laser turns on, but the laser will not fire. The LED on the laser is green.
** Remember to check out the laser at [https://p2k16.bitraf.no/#!/tool p2k16/tools]
* The fan for the red laser will not start (even if there is a green light on the rear of the fan)
** If the power has been out (fuse blow, etc), the fan for the red laser has to be turned on using the fan panel (use a ladder or long pole)

== Innkjøp ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Dokumentasjon ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

[[Red Sail Laser 100W]]

== Reparasjon ==
Feilsøking og reparasjon: Se [[Laser-vedlikehold]]

== Logg over anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing ==
[[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:Utstyr]]
[[Category:Laserkutter]] [[Category:Laser]]
[[Category:Hvordan]]

Laser

2020-08-25T01:29:37Z

Kinginamoto: /* Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser */

== Lokasjon ==
Laserkutterne er plassert i eget rom i verkstedet.
Den røde laseren er plassert nærmest inngangen til rommet (til venstre når du står foran den), den blå laseren er plassert nærmest nødutgangen (til høyre når du står foran laserkutterne).

== Bruk av laseren ==
[[Fil:20180308 210330 Laserkutting.jpg|miniatyr|Laserkuttede produkter i Bitrafs demohylle]]

=== Tilgang ===

Laserkutterne er kun tilgjengelig *for medlemmer og kontorplass-brukere* på Bitraf, altså ikke for gjester. [https://p2k12.bitraf.no/join Bli medlem!]

Maskinene er utstyrt med [[Tilgangskontroll|tilgangskontroll]], du må sjekke ut maskinen før bruk, og sjekke den inn igjen etter bruk.

Du må ha *gjennomført kurs* i grunnleggende bruk og sikkerhet før du kan bruke laseren.
Kurs legges ut på [http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/ meetup.com/bitraf] jevnlig.

Du forplikter deg også til å forlate laser-rommet rent og ryddig – uansett hvordan rommet var når du kom.

Er du medlem uten kurs, men har behov for å få [[gravering|gravert]] eller skjært noe, kontakt Thomas, [[Bruker:Jensa|Jensa]], Nikolai eller Jon.

Hvis du heller vil betale noen for å utføre en jobb kan du kontakte [[Bruker:Nikolai|Nikolai]] eller legge ut en melding på Slack eller Facebook-gruppen vår.

=== Booking ===

Laserne bookes på forhånd via en google kalender. Se her for hvordan du får tilgang til kalenderen: [[Booking|https://bitraf.no/wiki/Booking]]

=== Kommersiell bruk ===

Dersom man gjør *kommersielle jobber*, betaler man 350 NOK/time (+moms) for bruk av laseren.
Kommersiell jobb er en jobb hvor man enten får betalt for å lage noe eller gjør produksjon av noe man selger selv. Dette bidrar til kostnadene ved vedlikehold, samt for å ikke urettferdig konkurrere med andre som leverer tjenester rundt laser, og at ikke bruken blir monopolisert av noen enkelte som driver gratis masseproduksjon.

Kommersiell bruk betales normalt i [[Bitmart]] med kort. Legg inn epost så får du kvittering på epost.
Dersom du trenger en faktura, kan du istedet skriv en epost til "kasserer (at] bitraf.no" og spesifiser antall timer bruk og dato.

=== Arbeidsområde ===

Rød Laser:
680 mm * 480 mm

Blå laser:
880 mm * 570 mm

I [[Bitmart]] selges 4 mm bjørkefinér i formatene 680 mm * 480 mm og 540 mm * 480 mm. I tillegg finnes ymse andre materialer i 540x480mm. Poppelfinér var tidligere til salgs i ferdigkappa størrelser til laseren, men fås nå kun i stor plate (2440x1220mm).

=== Autolaser på felles PC ===

Autolaser är software som vi använder för att göra och sända jobb till våra lasers. Autolaser finns installerat och konfigurerat på felles PCn i laser-rummet med maskinprofiler för både RÖD och BLÅ laser.

==== MERK: lag i AutoLaser er globale ====
'''''Hvis man jobber på felles PC og bytter mellom dokumentene, så merk at lagene i Autolaser som brukes til å styre effekt og brenntid, er globale. Endrer man således ett av dem (svart, rødt, hva som helst) og så bytter til et annet dokument i Autolaser som bruker det samme laget (typisk med svart), så vil disse innstillingene også endres i alle andre dokumenter.'''''

=== Autolaser på egen PC ===

* <s>[http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp Last ned autolaser]</s> - død lenke - [http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/Download/index/l/en/id/18.html Last ned autolaser], ta den via [https://www.virustotal.com/gui/home/url virustotal.com]. Kopier av AutoLaser ligger også [https://karlsbakk.net/autolaser/ her] (last også ned med virustotal).

* Maskininställningar. För att lasern skall kutte rett vei så må man ställa in i Autolaser vilket hörn av lasern som är nollpunkten (origo). Se bilde för instruks:
[[Fil:Origo setting.jpg|miniatyr|How to set origo in Autolaser]]

* Mer information finns i [https://halk.ru/forum/resources/49/download?version=49 Manualen till Autolaser]

== Steg ==

Dette er de grunnleggende stegene man går igjennom for å lage noe med laseren.

* 1) På forhånd: Lag eller last ned et design. Exporter til DXF
* 2) PC: Importer vektorfil (DXF)
* 3) PC: Lag verktøybaner
* 4) PC: Eksporter jobben til laser
* 5) Laser: Legg i materiale
* 6) Laser: Fokuser laseren
* 7) Laser: Sett jobb Origin
* 8) Laser: Kjør jobben
* 9) Laser: Ta ut materiale

=== 1a) Lag et design ===
Du kan bruke hvilken som helst software som kan eksportere til DXF filer (vektor).
Om programmet ikke kan eksportere direkte kan man bruke Inkscape eller lignende til å konvertere.

Eksempler på programmer som folk på Bitraf bruker. Noen av disse kjøres det kurs på innimellom.

* [https://inkscape.org/en Inkscape], enkelt 2D vektor. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD], avansert 2D/3D parametrisk solid modelling. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD], programmeringspråk for parametrisk 3D. Gratis+opensource
* SketchUp, enkel 3D direct modelling. Gratis
* Rhino, avansert 2D/3D direct modelling. Studentlisens: ca 9000kr
* Adobe Illustrator, enkelt 2D vektor. 7 dagers prøvelisenser. Studentlisens: ?

=== 1b) Last ned design ===

Du finner en del laser/CNC design rundt på nettet, om ikke på langt nær like mye som for 3d-printing.
Søk for eksempel på "laser" eller "lasercut" på [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].

=== 2. Importer vektorfil ===

* Start programmet AutoLaser (ligger på skrivebordet på laptopen i laser-rummet).
* Importer filen din. File -> Import, velg fil, velg "metric"
* Du burde nå se den importerte filen i dokumentvinduet
* Verifisere at størrelsen på importert geometrien, ved å velge noe og se størrelsen (width/height) på verkstøylinja.

Du kan også dobbeltklikke på en .DXF fil i filutforskeren for å starte Autolaser.
=====Benefits and drawbacks of different imported file formats in Autolaser=====
* .DXF-files support layers but breaks all loops which can cause problems when carving. (Can sometimes be healed using "Unite near" but not always.) When exporting DXF from Rhino, use setting "Natural" - lines will not break.
* .PLT-files support closed geometry but not layers (Can be solved by exporting a file per layer and cut-and-pasting them back together in Autolaser.)

=== 3. Laging av verktøybaner ===

Merk: Instillinger for speed/power avhenger av materiale. Bruk tabellen lenger ned som utgangspunkt!

Enkel: Ett sett med instillinger (penn) i jobben

* Sjekk at all geometrien har samme farge (sort er standard).
* Dobbeltklikk på instillingene for fargen i listen "Param" i høyre sidepanel.
* Velg enten "Cut" (vektor) eller "Carve" (raster).
* Sett passende "Cut speed".
* Sett Work/Corner Power 1.
* Sett Work/Corner Power 2 til samme som 1.
* Sjekk at "Free speed" er satt til 100 mm/s

"Free Speed" (jog speed) er hastigheten når laseren er av, og hodet flytter seg mellom områder som skal lasres.

"Corner Power" er effekten i hjørner.
Ved å redusere Corner Power relativt til Work Power kan man få bedre.
Feks 10-20% lavere Corner kontra Work Power.

TODO: test og dokumenter Carve/raster opsjoner

Avansert: Flere instillinger (penner) i en jobb. Feks [[gravering]] + kutting

* Velg geometri som skal ha andre instillinger, trykk på penn (1-16) på nedre verktøylinje.
* Geometrien vil nå få en annen farge, og en ny penn-instilling vil dukke opp i listen til høyre.
* All geometri med en viss farge vil bruk instillingene for den fargen/pennen

Ofte ønsker man å gravere først, deretter kutte ut. Dette fordi bitene kan flytte seg litt når man kutter ut. Du kan velge rekkefølge på "pennene" i jobben ved å bruke "Up" og "Down" i listen.

TODO: finn ut hvordan man kan lagre og åpne prosjektfiler (inkl penne-instillinger)

=== 4. Eksportér jobben til laseren ===

* Dobbeltsjekk 1) Riktige farger på all geometri.
* Dobbeltsjekk 2) Riktig hastighet/power på hver farge.
* Sjekk at laseren er skrudd på
* Sjekk at USB kabel mellom PC og laser er koplet til
* Kople til laseren i software. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Search". Skal stå "COM6" når vellykket.
* Eksporter verktøybanene. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Download" -> "Doc to Mac". Tar noen sekunder. Laseren piper når ferdig overført.
* Den nye jobben skal nå vises som preview på laseren.

=== 5. Legg inn materiale ===

* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Kjør laserhodet litt opp. Axis -> U axis -> 20 (mm) -> Enter
* Legg i materialet. Vær forsiktig så du ikke dytter borti høydeproben på laserhodet

=== 6. Fokusering av laseren ===

Hver gang man legger inn materiale med ny tykkelse må man sette høyden på Z-aksen på nytt, for å få riktig fokus på laseren. Dette er viktig både for effektive kutt i tykke materialer, og for detaljert [[gravering]].

* Flytt hodet til der hvor materialet er for å fokusere høyden der.
* Legg vekter på materialet hvis det ikke er flatt nok. Ikke la laser hodet kollidere i vektene.
* Trykk på punktum (.) og deretter på Enter.

=== 7. Sett start-posisjon for jobben (Origin) ===

Man må velge hvor på maskinen nullpunktet for jobben skal være (Origin).
Dette vil bli posisjonen til koordinatet 0,0 i dokumentet.

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt riktig høyde/fokus!
* Kjør vognen til ønsket start posisjon.
* Trykk på origin knappen. Laseren piper for konfirmasjon.

=== 8. Kjør jobben ===

''Viktig: Du må alltid være tilstede når maskinen kjører, grunnet brannfare!''
Merk: Dersom noe uforventet oppstår, trykk på nødstoppen i front!

Hvis det slår flammer ut av materialet, slå av avsuget og ta CO2-slukkeren som står til høyre for laseren. Dra ut splinten på slukkeren, løft og rett slukkeren mot brannstedet og klem sammen håndtaket. Dette vil kvele all ild (og også deg om du prøver å puste dette inn).

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt Origin
* Sjekk at du treffer den riktige delen av materialet ved å trykke Range og deretter Enter (viser ytterkantene av omerådet du skjærer)
* Start avtrekksviften (RØD: Egen switch på laser, BLÅ: Knapp på avtrekksboxen)
* Trykk på "Start"

Når jobben er ferdig piper den.

Avansert: Pause

Du kan bruke "Pause/Run" knappen for pause, feks for å sjekke nøyere hvordan det gikk.
Den stopper umiddelbart, og man kan forsette ved å trykke den Pause igjen.
Trykk ESC for å avbryte jobben når man er i Pause modus.

Man kan endre Speed/Power innstillinger når man er i Pause. Det kan bruker for å tilpasse dersom man ser at man ikke kutter helt igjennom materiale eller gravering blir for lys/kraftig.

Endring i instillinger gjelder for en penn/lag. På slutten av ett lag vil den spørre om man ønsker å lagre endringene til fil.

=== 9. Ta ut materiale ===

* Skru av avtrekksviften
* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Åpne lokket til laseren
* Dobbeltsjekk at du har kuttet helt igjennom, og bitene er løse
* Ta ut platen. Vær forsiktig at du ikke dytter bordi autoproben på hodet!
* Fjern eventuelle biter som ligger på honeycomben

Om ikke du har fått kuttet helt igjennom kan du kjøre jobben på nytt.

== Vedlikehold ==
[[Laser-vedlikehold]]

[[Laserfilter]]

== Software ==
[[Laser-software]]

== Innstillinger for forskjellige materialer ==
Forskjellige innstillinger må brukes på forskjellige materialer.

Generellt om hastighet
* 20 mm/s ger alltid pena linjer
* 30 mm/s ger ett lætt skelvende linjer
* 40 mm/s ger merkbart skelvende linjer
* etc...

=== Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 15mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], 5mm: 9mm/sec v/60%
* Akryl (klar), 8mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (speil), fra Bitmart, 3mm: 15-20mm/sec v/100% OBS! Legg alltid speil-flaten ned, så du kutter på baksiden av speilet!
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 25 mm/s, power 100%
* Silkboard 1mm (fra Bitmart): 42 mm/s, corner power 12%, work power 20% (bruk maskeringsteip for å unngå brennmerke)
* MDF (fra Bitmart), 2mm: 16mm/sec power 35%
* Papir Fabriano Tiziani 160g (fra Bitmart):
** Tekst (ikke kutt): 30 mm/s, min power 1.5%, max power: 6.0
** Kutt: 30 mm/s, min power 20%, max power: 20

=== Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 10% (graverer kun i overflaten, for figurer)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 80%, Carve accuracy 0.1 mm (svært grov gravering. går nesten gjennom hele marerialet)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 40% (for tekst)
* Transperent: 100 mm/s, power 14% (for PCB-stensil. Bruk vått ark på begge sider)
* Akryl 5mm (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], : 120mm/s horiUNI carve accuracy 0.035 v/100%
* Eik heltre: 110mm/s, power 22% horiUNI carve accuracy 0.049

=== Kutting gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, 2mm: 9mm/sec v/100%
* MDF, 6mm: 5mm/sec v/100%
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100% (95%corner)
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 6mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar, fra [[Bitmart]]/Plastkompaniet), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (blå), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), 5mm: 8mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra Finn Løken AS, 10mm: 2mm/sec v/100%
* Styren (billigste 'plastglass' fra Biltema), 2mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Kryssfiner 3,5 mm 9 mm/s v/100%
* Polyester tekstil: 30 mm/s v/2%
* Denim tekstil (fra olabukse, sort): 30 mm/s v/15%
* Gummi 5mm (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 2.5 mm/s
* PETG 2.5 mm (Ikea Kuggis boks): 15 mm/s 100%
* Papp 3 mm: 30 mm/s v/50%
* Lær 2mm 15mm/s v/100% (95% corner) (http://www.chemsen.no/m%c3%b8belhud-anchester.html)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Cut through all: Cut 20 mm/s 30% work 20% corner (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

=== Gravering gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, vektorgravering: 100mm/sec v/20%
* Akryl, rastergravering: 300mm/sec, accuracy 0.05mm v/5%
* Kryssfiner, vektorgravering(cut) 3,5 mm 20 mm/s v/10% (Snabbare ger stygge linjer)
* Poppelfineer (Oslo Fineer), 300mm/sec: v/10%
* Lær (brunt), vektorgravering, v/1%, 30mm/s, gir fine, litt under 1mm dype snitt
* Gummi dypt for stempel (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 30mm/sec v/30%
* Mylar stensil 0.5 mm: 300 mm/s v/40%, kutter helt igjennom
* Greeting card paper, vektorgravering: 30 mm/s 5-10%
* Greeting card paper, rastergravering: 300 mm/s 15% 0.1 mm (2-way)
* Ikea rødvinsglass, raster: 100 mm/s 50%
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Change colour: Carve 150 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 15% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Carve holes through sticker but leave back: Carve 300 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 50% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

'''NB!''' Da polykarbonat/Lexan både er vanskelig å kutte med vår type laser og avgir [https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisfenol_A Bisfenol A] når det kuttes, har vi valgt å fjerne dette plastmaterialet fra listen med plasttyper godkjent for bruk på Bitraf

=== Specialanpassad fokushøjde ===

<big>Tykke material</big>

For å kutte raskest/renest mulig kan avanserte brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er i midten av materialet i stede for på toppen:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og reduser U verdien med halvparten av materialtykkelsen (default fokusavstånd ær 5.5 mm på BLÅ laser)
# Kutt sen med høyere hastighet en vanlig. Ekperimenter og dokumenter bra verdier på Wiki.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

<big>Gravering / Tynne material</big>

Før att får høyest mulig oppløsning och precision så kan brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er på toppen av materialet i stede for en bit ned i materialet:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og sett U verdien till 10 mm
# Nu kan du gravera mindre detaljer och cutta mer precist i tynna materialer som papp.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

=== Rastergravering ===

Før att rastergravering skall fungera så måste geometrin vara sluten. Prova anvænda "Unit near" om du bruker .dxf import och om det inte virker importera från en .plt fil.

Laseren kan ikke gravere gråtoner, men man kan gjøre en del triks for å emulere dette. Hvis man bare skal lage et "greit" bilde ut kan man lage et sort/hvitt bilde i et tegneprogram. Hvis dette ikke er altfor stort ( < 1500x1500 pixler? ) og man lagrer det som en 1-bit (to fargers) PNG, vil man kunne importere og gravere denne. Innstillingene som er brukt på Bitraf's sponsor-skilt (3mm hvit akryl med svart spraymaling) er: Carve 200mm/sec, Carve accuracy 0.050, Work power 25%

Hvis man trikser litt kan man lage flere slike og gravere i flere omganger for å få noe som ligner på gråtoner. Dette krever litt prøving og feiling, men hver gang man lasrer havner laseren mere ut av fokus og man får svartere og svartere brennmerker.

=== Kerf ===
Kerf<ref>[http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/what-is-laser-kerf Understanding the kerf of the laser]</ref> er den delen av materialet som laseren brenner bort, og som gir "slark" når du skal sette sammen deler. Kerf vil variere etter materialtype og -tykkelse. På Thingiverse finnes en modell<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84621 Laser Cutter Kerf Gauge]</ref> som du kan kutte ut i ønsket materiale for å finne ut nøyaktig hva kerf'en er.

=== [[Gravering]] på metaller ===
Thomas har en spray som tilhører Bitraf som kan brukes til å gravere på [[metallarbeid|metall]], både rustfritt stål og aluminium. Den heter LMM6000 og er dyr! Michael har visst også laget en DIY versjon av denne av (Glycol + Kritt)?

100% med 100 mm/s carving ser ut til å fungere bra!

== Rotary axis attachment: laser engraving and cutting round objects ==
The red laser has a rotary axis attachment. This means we can draw, engrave, and cut materials that are round.
===Important…===
<big>'''NEW guidelines: When installing the rotary axis inside the laser, place it with the chuck (spindle, heavy end, jaws, grip) to the LEFT. Why? Should you turn off and on the laser, the laser head will attempt to "home". Since one axis is now rotating, and only one axis moves the laser head, it will then "home" to the far right. IF the rotary axis thingamabob is placed with the chuck to the right, the laser head will crash into the chuck and potentially be seriously damaged.'''</big>
[[Fil:Placing rotary axis inside laser.jpg|left|thumb]]
 

===Prepare files: formulae===
The object is round. It spins at a certain speed depending on your settings. To account for this, the artwork needs to be "distorted" in the software so it will turn out correctly on the object. You need to know:
* Diameter of the object (at the place where you will engrave/cut)
* Length of the artwork

''drawing width/(object diameter / 3.14) = drawing width to use in autolaser''
===Example===
[[Fil:Example artwork.png|miniatyr|left|Example artwork]]
 
[[Fil:Example calculation and "distorting".png|miniatyr|venstre|example calculation and "distorting"]]
 
[[Fil:Tilt and mirror.png|miniatyr|venstre|tilt and mirror]]
 
[[Fil:Result.jpg|miniatyr|venstre|result]]
 

===Prepare laser===
[[Fil:Swap plugs for the rotary.jpg|miniatyr|Note the two plugs are attached to the same cable holder.]]
* Run the laser head to top right corner
* Lower the bed… a lot (U-)
* Remove the honeycomb
* Move laser head approx half way on the y axis
* TURN OFF the laser before opening the the bottom panel on the right side of the laser
* Swap connectors behind the panel (see image).
** Basically: there are two connectors (A and B) attached to each other (or rather: they come out of the same twisty-cable-holder-thing), and one is plugged in to the socket.
** Swap them
** Close the lid
** ALWAYS PUT the normal one BACK when finished. If someone didn't attend the Rotary-attachment training, they'll have NO idea why the laser isn't working.
* Turn the laser on. It should now be unable to "home" normally (go to the top right corner), as one axis now is the rotary, but will "home" on the Y axis, sending the laser head all the way over to the right side.
==== Rotation max/min ====
Even if the rotary attachment has no physical endpoints, the laser control software will have a max/and min position. You will probably want to do your work while the laser is in the middle of these points. This can be achieved by rotating the attachment using the up/down button to one end, counting the number of seconds it takes to rotate all the way to the other end, and then rotating it back approx half as many seconds as a max-min-movement takes. If you try to ''range'' or start a job while the laser is to close to the max or min positions you will get a ''outbound'' (out of bounds) error on the display panel.

[[Fil:Rotary attachment teeth.jpg|miniatyr]]

=== "Jaw" ===
Decide which teeth you need.
There are two types, each a set of three: expanding and contracting.
The expanding secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the inside out. (for concave glasses)
The contracting ones secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the outside in. (for convex glasses)

Both the expanding (inner diameter of work piece) and contracting (outer diameter of work piece) teeth have a work area (max/min diameter) of approx. 2.5cm to 7.5cm.

They are numbered, and marked:
* X for expanding (best for concave objects ends)
* O for contracting (best for convex objects ends)

==== How to attach ====

The teeth and the chuck key should be in a dedicated box on the tall shelf behind the door.
[[Fil:Teeth lining up in the center.jpg|miniatyr|teeth align tightly in the center]]
* To attach the teeth, place each of the three teeth in their ''correspondingly numbered slits 1, 2, 3.''
* The pointy end goes in towards the center (so that when fully tightened it forms a compact shape of three triangles)
* Hold them in place with one hand, with a finger on each.
* Use the chuck key and screw OUTWARDS. ONLY use the special chuck key that came with the rotary axis.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number two click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number three click.
* Here is the surprise: Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click again.
* Gently start screwing inwards.
* ''Screw all the way in,'' and visually check that the teeth align perfectly in the center. If they don't, your material will rotate off center, and potentially break your material, the attachment and/or the laser head. So if they don't line up perfectly, do it again.

===Place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser===
[[Fil:Connector for rotation attatchment.jpg|miniatyr|right|rotary attachment pin board]]
* Carefully place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser with the jaws (spindle, chuck, heavy end…) to the LEFT.
* Attach the coax cable from the rotary axis attachment to the connector ''inside'' the laser. When you stand in front of the laser, it is bottom right. The connector is marked with a yellow sticker: "rotary pinboard" (see image).
* From now on you must be VERY careful not to smash the laser head into stuff

Align the probe over the desired area and set focus point as normal, with .+enter.
To be super careful, drive the laser head away from the rotary axis attachment, and do a range test in an area where it will not smash into anything, should there be a … mishap. Pay careful attention to how the probe moves, and how the rotation moves. If it seems as expected, drive the laser head to the place where you want the job to begin. Note that you do not align with the ''probe'', but the laser.
 

=== Glass surface: Preparation ===
[[Fil:Red laser rotary glass damp paper towel.jpg|200px|right|miniatyr|Example wet paper towel. The towel should be more flush with the glass that in this picture.]]
Using a moist paper towel helps prevent the engraving area from becoming rough, and leads to a clear, white engraving result.
Before you start engraving, apply a moist single-layer paper towel to the glass. Make sure there are no air bubbles or overlaps. This would affect the engraved image.

We have so far had success with one ply from the two-ply towels from the bathrooms, damped liberally using a spray bottle (i.e. the fire-bottle in the laser room).
Do not spray water inside the laser.
 

===Suggested settings===
IKEA rødvinsglass, [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/lodraet-olglass-klart-glass-50209337/ IKEA beer glass], [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/oanvaend-olglass-klart-glass-70209336/ IKEA tall beer glass] raster: '''100 mm/s 50%'''

== Hvor kan du kjøpe materialer ==

Det finnes en god guide om hva slags materialer som kan brukes hos [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials AtxHackerspace].

Bitraf-medlem Peter Watz har mange års erfaring med Laser og har laget en god oversikt over materialer som er gode å bruke. Han kan også hjelpe deg med kommersielle jobber: [http://kreativ-laser.no/materialer/finer-og-treverk/ kreativ-laser.no]

=== [[Bitmart]] ===

Fra September 2015 har vi akrylplater til salgs i Bitmart, i diverse tykkelser og størrelser - til en veldig god pris.

Fra Desember 2015 har vi poppelfiner, 4mm og 6mm til salgs i Bitmart. Priser rundt 50 kr for en plate som passer i laseren.

=== Leverandorer ===

Plastcompaniet A/S på Alna, leverer akrylplater og annen plast, i større kvanta.

Man får også akrylplater på Biltema og Clas Ohlson, men da ganske dyrt.

Biltema selger "plastglass" som er Styren-plater. Disse lukter mindre enn Akryl når de skjæres, men får veldig lett stygge smeltede kanter.

Når det gjelder gravering/kutting av tre, anbefaler de som har erfaring at man skaffer seg "Flyfiner" eller "Poppelfineer". Oslo Finerfabrikk AS has dette, og mange andre materialer som kan være interessante.

Christ. Engebretsen & Søn AS holder til i Pilestredet 27 og har et godt utvalg av papp, kartong og papir https://www.tegne.no/

== Debugging / feilsøkning ==
* The laser turns on, but the laser will not fire. The LED on the laser is green.
** Remember to check out the laser at [https://p2k16.bitraf.no/#!/tool p2k16/tools]
* The fan for the red laser will not start (even if there is a green light on the rear of the fan)
** If the power has been out (fuse blow, etc), the fan for the red laser has to be turned on using the fan panel (use a ladder or long pole)

== Innkjøp ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Dokumentasjon ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

[[Red Sail Laser 100W]]

== Reparasjon ==
Feilsøking og reparasjon: Se [[Laser-vedlikehold]]

== Logg over anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing ==
[[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:Utstyr]]
[[Category:Laserkutter]] [[Category:Laser]]
[[Category:Hvordan]]

Laser

2020-08-21T23:00:55Z

Kinginamoto: /* Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser */

== Lokasjon ==
Laserkutterne er plassert i eget rom i verkstedet.
Den røde laseren er plassert nærmest inngangen til rommet (til venstre når du står foran den), den blå laseren er plassert nærmest nødutgangen (til høyre når du står foran laserkutterne).

== Bruk av laseren ==
[[Fil:20180308 210330 Laserkutting.jpg|miniatyr|Laserkuttede produkter i Bitrafs demohylle]]

=== Tilgang ===

Laserkutterne er kun tilgjengelig *for medlemmer og kontorplass-brukere* på Bitraf, altså ikke for gjester. [https://p2k12.bitraf.no/join Bli medlem!]

Maskinene er utstyrt med [[Tilgangskontroll|tilgangskontroll]], du må sjekke ut maskinen før bruk, og sjekke den inn igjen etter bruk.

Du må ha *gjennomført kurs* i grunnleggende bruk og sikkerhet før du kan bruke laseren.
Kurs legges ut på [http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/ meetup.com/bitraf] jevnlig.

Du forplikter deg også til å forlate laser-rommet rent og ryddig – uansett hvordan rommet var når du kom.

Er du medlem uten kurs, men har behov for å få [[gravering|gravert]] eller skjært noe, kontakt Thomas, [[Bruker:Jensa|Jensa]], Nikolai eller Jon.

Hvis du heller vil betale noen for å utføre en jobb kan du kontakte [[Bruker:Nikolai|Nikolai]] eller legge ut en melding på Slack eller Facebook-gruppen vår.

=== Booking ===

Laserne bookes på forhånd via en google kalender. Se her for hvordan du får tilgang til kalenderen: [[Booking|https://bitraf.no/wiki/Booking]]

=== Kommersiell bruk ===

Dersom man gjør *kommersielle jobber*, betaler man 350 NOK/time (+moms) for bruk av laseren.
Kommersiell jobb er en jobb hvor man enten får betalt for å lage noe eller gjør produksjon av noe man selger selv. Dette bidrar til kostnadene ved vedlikehold, samt for å ikke urettferdig konkurrere med andre som leverer tjenester rundt laser, og at ikke bruken blir monopolisert av noen enkelte som driver gratis masseproduksjon.

Kommersiell bruk betales normalt i [[Bitmart]] med kort. Legg inn epost så får du kvittering på epost.
Dersom du trenger en faktura, kan du istedet skriv en epost til "kasserer (at] bitraf.no" og spesifiser antall timer bruk og dato.

=== Arbeidsområde ===

Rød Laser:
680 mm * 480 mm

Blå laser:
880 mm * 570 mm

I [[Bitmart]] selges 4 mm bjørkefinér i formatene 680 mm * 480 mm og 540 mm * 480 mm. I tillegg finnes ymse andre materialer i 540x480mm. Poppelfinér var tidligere til salgs i ferdigkappa størrelser til laseren, men fås nå kun i stor plate (2440x1220mm).

=== Autolaser på felles PC ===

Autolaser är software som vi använder för att göra och sända jobb till våra lasers. Autolaser finns installerat och konfigurerat på felles PCn i laser-rummet med maskinprofiler för både RÖD och BLÅ laser.

==== MERK: lag i AutoLaser er globale ====
'''''Hvis man jobber på felles PC og bytter mellom dokumentene, så merk at lagene i Autolaser som brukes til å styre effekt og brenntid, er globale. Endrer man således ett av dem (svart, rødt, hva som helst) og så bytter til et annet dokument i Autolaser som bruker det samme laget (typisk med svart), så vil disse innstillingene også endres i alle andre dokumenter.'''''

=== Autolaser på egen PC ===

* <s>[http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp Last ned autolaser]</s> - død lenke - [http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/Download/index/l/en/id/18.html Last ned autolaser], ta den via [https://www.virustotal.com/gui/home/url virustotal.com]. Kopier av AutoLaser ligger også [https://karlsbakk.net/autolaser/ her] (last også ned med virustotal).

* Maskininställningar. För att lasern skall kutte rett vei så må man ställa in i Autolaser vilket hörn av lasern som är nollpunkten (origo). Se bilde för instruks:
[[Fil:Origo setting.jpg|miniatyr|How to set origo in Autolaser]]

* Mer information finns i [https://halk.ru/forum/resources/49/download?version=49 Manualen till Autolaser]

== Steg ==

Dette er de grunnleggende stegene man går igjennom for å lage noe med laseren.

* 1) På forhånd: Lag eller last ned et design. Exporter til DXF
* 2) PC: Importer vektorfil (DXF)
* 3) PC: Lag verktøybaner
* 4) PC: Eksporter jobben til laser
* 5) Laser: Legg i materiale
* 6) Laser: Fokuser laseren
* 7) Laser: Sett jobb Origin
* 8) Laser: Kjør jobben
* 9) Laser: Ta ut materiale

=== 1a) Lag et design ===
Du kan bruke hvilken som helst software som kan eksportere til DXF filer (vektor).
Om programmet ikke kan eksportere direkte kan man bruke Inkscape eller lignende til å konvertere.

Eksempler på programmer som folk på Bitraf bruker. Noen av disse kjøres det kurs på innimellom.

* [https://inkscape.org/en Inkscape], enkelt 2D vektor. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD], avansert 2D/3D parametrisk solid modelling. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD], programmeringspråk for parametrisk 3D. Gratis+opensource
* SketchUp, enkel 3D direct modelling. Gratis
* Rhino, avansert 2D/3D direct modelling. Studentlisens: ca 9000kr
* Adobe Illustrator, enkelt 2D vektor. 7 dagers prøvelisenser. Studentlisens: ?

=== 1b) Last ned design ===

Du finner en del laser/CNC design rundt på nettet, om ikke på langt nær like mye som for 3d-printing.
Søk for eksempel på "laser" eller "lasercut" på [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].

=== 2. Importer vektorfil ===

* Start programmet AutoLaser (ligger på skrivebordet på laptopen i laser-rummet).
* Importer filen din. File -> Import, velg fil, velg "metric"
* Du burde nå se den importerte filen i dokumentvinduet
* Verifisere at størrelsen på importert geometrien, ved å velge noe og se størrelsen (width/height) på verkstøylinja.

Du kan også dobbeltklikke på en .DXF fil i filutforskeren for å starte Autolaser.
=====Benefits and drawbacks of different imported file formats in Autolaser=====
* .DXF-files support layers but breaks all loops which can cause problems when carving. (Can sometimes be healed using "Unite near" but not always.) When exporting DXF from Rhino, use setting "Natural" - lines will not break.
* .PLT-files support closed geometry but not layers (Can be solved by exporting a file per layer and cut-and-pasting them back together in Autolaser.)

=== 3. Laging av verktøybaner ===

Merk: Instillinger for speed/power avhenger av materiale. Bruk tabellen lenger ned som utgangspunkt!

Enkel: Ett sett med instillinger (penn) i jobben

* Sjekk at all geometrien har samme farge (sort er standard).
* Dobbeltklikk på instillingene for fargen i listen "Param" i høyre sidepanel.
* Velg enten "Cut" (vektor) eller "Carve" (raster).
* Sett passende "Cut speed".
* Sett Work/Corner Power 1.
* Sett Work/Corner Power 2 til samme som 1.
* Sjekk at "Free speed" er satt til 100 mm/s

"Free Speed" (jog speed) er hastigheten når laseren er av, og hodet flytter seg mellom områder som skal lasres.

"Corner Power" er effekten i hjørner.
Ved å redusere Corner Power relativt til Work Power kan man få bedre.
Feks 10-20% lavere Corner kontra Work Power.

TODO: test og dokumenter Carve/raster opsjoner

Avansert: Flere instillinger (penner) i en jobb. Feks [[gravering]] + kutting

* Velg geometri som skal ha andre instillinger, trykk på penn (1-16) på nedre verktøylinje.
* Geometrien vil nå få en annen farge, og en ny penn-instilling vil dukke opp i listen til høyre.
* All geometri med en viss farge vil bruk instillingene for den fargen/pennen

Ofte ønsker man å gravere først, deretter kutte ut. Dette fordi bitene kan flytte seg litt når man kutter ut. Du kan velge rekkefølge på "pennene" i jobben ved å bruke "Up" og "Down" i listen.

TODO: finn ut hvordan man kan lagre og åpne prosjektfiler (inkl penne-instillinger)

=== 4. Eksportér jobben til laseren ===

* Dobbeltsjekk 1) Riktige farger på all geometri.
* Dobbeltsjekk 2) Riktig hastighet/power på hver farge.
* Sjekk at laseren er skrudd på
* Sjekk at USB kabel mellom PC og laser er koplet til
* Kople til laseren i software. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Search". Skal stå "COM6" når vellykket.
* Eksporter verktøybanene. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Download" -> "Doc to Mac". Tar noen sekunder. Laseren piper når ferdig overført.
* Den nye jobben skal nå vises som preview på laseren.

=== 5. Legg inn materiale ===

* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Kjør laserhodet litt opp. Axis -> U axis -> 20 (mm) -> Enter
* Legg i materialet. Vær forsiktig så du ikke dytter borti høydeproben på laserhodet

=== 6. Fokusering av laseren ===

Hver gang man legger inn materiale med ny tykkelse må man sette høyden på Z-aksen på nytt, for å få riktig fokus på laseren. Dette er viktig både for effektive kutt i tykke materialer, og for detaljert [[gravering]].

* Flytt hodet til der hvor materialet er for å fokusere høyden der.
* Legg vekter på materialet hvis det ikke er flatt nok. Ikke la laser hodet kollidere i vektene.
* Trykk på punktum (.) og deretter på Enter.

=== 7. Sett start-posisjon for jobben (Origin) ===

Man må velge hvor på maskinen nullpunktet for jobben skal være (Origin).
Dette vil bli posisjonen til koordinatet 0,0 i dokumentet.

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt riktig høyde/fokus!
* Kjør vognen til ønsket start posisjon.
* Trykk på origin knappen. Laseren piper for konfirmasjon.

=== 8. Kjør jobben ===

''Viktig: Du må alltid være tilstede når maskinen kjører, grunnet brannfare!''
Merk: Dersom noe uforventet oppstår, trykk på nødstoppen i front!

Hvis det slår flammer ut av materialet, slå av avsuget og ta CO2-slukkeren som står til høyre for laseren. Dra ut splinten på slukkeren, løft og rett slukkeren mot brannstedet og klem sammen håndtaket. Dette vil kvele all ild (og også deg om du prøver å puste dette inn).

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt Origin
* Sjekk at du treffer den riktige delen av materialet ved å trykke Range og deretter Enter (viser ytterkantene av omerådet du skjærer)
* Start avtrekksviften (RØD: Egen switch på laser, BLÅ: Knapp på avtrekksboxen)
* Trykk på "Start"

Når jobben er ferdig piper den.

Avansert: Pause

Du kan bruke "Pause/Run" knappen for pause, feks for å sjekke nøyere hvordan det gikk.
Den stopper umiddelbart, og man kan forsette ved å trykke den Pause igjen.
Trykk ESC for å avbryte jobben når man er i Pause modus.

Man kan endre Speed/Power innstillinger når man er i Pause. Det kan bruker for å tilpasse dersom man ser at man ikke kutter helt igjennom materiale eller gravering blir for lys/kraftig.

Endring i instillinger gjelder for en penn/lag. På slutten av ett lag vil den spørre om man ønsker å lagre endringene til fil.

=== 9. Ta ut materiale ===

* Skru av avtrekksviften
* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Åpne lokket til laseren
* Dobbeltsjekk at du har kuttet helt igjennom, og bitene er løse
* Ta ut platen. Vær forsiktig at du ikke dytter bordi autoproben på hodet!
* Fjern eventuelle biter som ligger på honeycomben

Om ikke du har fått kuttet helt igjennom kan du kjøre jobben på nytt.

== Vedlikehold ==
[[Laser-vedlikehold]]

[[Laserfilter]]

== Software ==
[[Laser-software]]

== Innstillinger for forskjellige materialer ==
Forskjellige innstillinger må brukes på forskjellige materialer.

Generellt om hastighet
* 20 mm/s ger alltid pena linjer
* 30 mm/s ger ett lætt skelvende linjer
* 40 mm/s ger merkbart skelvende linjer
* etc...

=== Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 15mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], 5mm: 9mm/sec v/60%
* Akryl (klar), 8mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (speil), fra Bitmart, 3mm: 15-20mm/sec v/100% OBS! Legg alltid speil-flaten ned, så du kutter på baksiden av speilet!
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 25 mm/s, power 100%
* Silkboard 1mm (fra Bitmart): 42 mm/s, corner power 12%, work power 20% (bruk maskeringsteip for å unngå brennmerke)
* Papir Fabriano Tiziani 160g (fra Bitmart):
** Tekst (ikke kutt): 30 mm/s, min power 1.5%, max power: 6.0
** Kutt: 30 mm/s, min power 20%, max power: 20

=== Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 10% (graverer kun i overflaten, for figurer)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 80%, Carve accuracy 0.1 mm (svært grov gravering. går nesten gjennom hele marerialet)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 40% (for tekst)
* Transperent: 100 mm/s, power 14% (for PCB-stensil. Bruk vått ark på begge sider)
* Akryl 5mm (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], : 120mm/s horiUNI carve accuracy 0.035 v/100%
* Eik heltre: 110mm/s, power 22% horiUNI carve accuracy 0.049

=== Kutting gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, 2mm: 9mm/sec v/100%
* MDF, 6mm: 5mm/sec v/100%
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100% (95%corner)
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 6mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar, fra [[Bitmart]]/Plastkompaniet), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (blå), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), 5mm: 8mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra Finn Løken AS, 10mm: 2mm/sec v/100%
* Styren (billigste 'plastglass' fra Biltema), 2mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Kryssfiner 3,5 mm 9 mm/s v/100%
* Polyester tekstil: 30 mm/s v/2%
* Denim tekstil (fra olabukse, sort): 30 mm/s v/15%
* Gummi 5mm (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 2.5 mm/s
* PETG 2.5 mm (Ikea Kuggis boks): 15 mm/s 100%
* Papp 3 mm: 30 mm/s v/50%
* Lær 2mm 15mm/s v/100% (95% corner) (http://www.chemsen.no/m%c3%b8belhud-anchester.html)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Cut through all: Cut 20 mm/s 30% work 20% corner (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

=== Gravering gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, vektorgravering: 100mm/sec v/20%
* Akryl, rastergravering: 300mm/sec, accuracy 0.05mm v/5%
* Kryssfiner, vektorgravering(cut) 3,5 mm 20 mm/s v/10% (Snabbare ger stygge linjer)
* Poppelfineer (Oslo Fineer), 300mm/sec: v/10%
* Lær (brunt), vektorgravering, v/1%, 30mm/s, gir fine, litt under 1mm dype snitt
* Gummi dypt for stempel (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 30mm/sec v/30%
* Mylar stensil 0.5 mm: 300 mm/s v/40%, kutter helt igjennom
* Greeting card paper, vektorgravering: 30 mm/s 5-10%
* Greeting card paper, rastergravering: 300 mm/s 15% 0.1 mm (2-way)
* Ikea rødvinsglass, raster: 100 mm/s 50%
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Change colour: Carve 150 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 15% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Carve holes through sticker but leave back: Carve 300 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 50% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

'''NB!''' Da polykarbonat/Lexan både er vanskelig å kutte med vår type laser og avgir [https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisfenol_A Bisfenol A] når det kuttes, har vi valgt å fjerne dette plastmaterialet fra listen med plasttyper godkjent for bruk på Bitraf

=== Specialanpassad fokushøjde ===

<big>Tykke material</big>

For å kutte raskest/renest mulig kan avanserte brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er i midten av materialet i stede for på toppen:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og reduser U verdien med halvparten av materialtykkelsen (default fokusavstånd ær 5.5 mm på BLÅ laser)
# Kutt sen med høyere hastighet en vanlig. Ekperimenter og dokumenter bra verdier på Wiki.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

<big>Gravering / Tynne material</big>

Før att får høyest mulig oppløsning och precision så kan brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er på toppen av materialet i stede for en bit ned i materialet:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og sett U verdien till 10 mm
# Nu kan du gravera mindre detaljer och cutta mer precist i tynna materialer som papp.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

=== Rastergravering ===

Før att rastergravering skall fungera så måste geometrin vara sluten. Prova anvænda "Unit near" om du bruker .dxf import och om det inte virker importera från en .plt fil.

Laseren kan ikke gravere gråtoner, men man kan gjøre en del triks for å emulere dette. Hvis man bare skal lage et "greit" bilde ut kan man lage et sort/hvitt bilde i et tegneprogram. Hvis dette ikke er altfor stort ( < 1500x1500 pixler? ) og man lagrer det som en 1-bit (to fargers) PNG, vil man kunne importere og gravere denne. Innstillingene som er brukt på Bitraf's sponsor-skilt (3mm hvit akryl med svart spraymaling) er: Carve 200mm/sec, Carve accuracy 0.050, Work power 25%

Hvis man trikser litt kan man lage flere slike og gravere i flere omganger for å få noe som ligner på gråtoner. Dette krever litt prøving og feiling, men hver gang man lasrer havner laseren mere ut av fokus og man får svartere og svartere brennmerker.

=== Kerf ===
Kerf<ref>[http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/what-is-laser-kerf Understanding the kerf of the laser]</ref> er den delen av materialet som laseren brenner bort, og som gir "slark" når du skal sette sammen deler. Kerf vil variere etter materialtype og -tykkelse. På Thingiverse finnes en modell<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84621 Laser Cutter Kerf Gauge]</ref> som du kan kutte ut i ønsket materiale for å finne ut nøyaktig hva kerf'en er.

=== [[Gravering]] på metaller ===
Thomas har en spray som tilhører Bitraf som kan brukes til å gravere på [[metallarbeid|metall]], både rustfritt stål og aluminium. Den heter LMM6000 og er dyr! Michael har visst også laget en DIY versjon av denne av (Glycol + Kritt)?

100% med 100 mm/s carving ser ut til å fungere bra!

== Rotary axis attachment: laser engraving and cutting round objects ==
The red laser has a rotary axis attachment. This means we can draw, engrave, and cut materials that are round.
===Important…===
<big>'''NEW guidelines: When installing the rotary axis inside the laser, place it with the chuck (spindle, heavy end, jaws, grip) to the LEFT. Why? Should you turn off and on the laser, the laser head will attempt to "home". Since one axis is now rotating, and only one axis moves the laser head, it will then "home" to the far right. IF the rotary axis thingamabob is placed with the chuck to the right, the laser head will crash into the chuck and potentially be seriously damaged.'''</big>
[[Fil:Placing rotary axis inside laser.jpg|left|thumb]]
 

===Prepare files: formulae===
The object is round. It spins at a certain speed depending on your settings. To account for this, the artwork needs to be "distorted" in the software so it will turn out correctly on the object. You need to know:
* Diameter of the object (at the place where you will engrave/cut)
* Length of the artwork

''drawing width/(object diameter / 3.14) = drawing width to use in autolaser''
===Example===
[[Fil:Example artwork.png|miniatyr|left|Example artwork]]
 
[[Fil:Example calculation and "distorting".png|miniatyr|venstre|example calculation and "distorting"]]
 
[[Fil:Tilt and mirror.png|miniatyr|venstre|tilt and mirror]]
 
[[Fil:Result.jpg|miniatyr|venstre|result]]
 

===Prepare laser===
[[Fil:Swap plugs for the rotary.jpg|miniatyr|Note the two plugs are attached to the same cable holder.]]
* Run the laser head to top right corner
* Lower the bed… a lot (U-)
* Remove the honeycomb
* Move laser head approx half way on the y axis
* TURN OFF the laser before opening the the bottom panel on the right side of the laser
* Swap connectors behind the panel (see image).
** Basically: there are two connectors (A and B) attached to each other (or rather: they come out of the same twisty-cable-holder-thing), and one is plugged in to the socket.
** Swap them
** Close the lid
** ALWAYS PUT the normal one BACK when finished. If someone didn't attend the Rotary-attachment training, they'll have NO idea why the laser isn't working.
* Turn the laser on. It should now be unable to "home" normally (go to the top right corner), as one axis now is the rotary, but will "home" on the Y axis, sending the laser head all the way over to the right side.
==== Rotation max/min ====
Even if the rotary attachment has no physical endpoints, the laser control software will have a max/and min position. You will probably want to do your work while the laser is in the middle of these points. This can be achieved by rotating the attachment using the up/down button to one end, counting the number of seconds it takes to rotate all the way to the other end, and then rotating it back approx half as many seconds as a max-min-movement takes. If you try to ''range'' or start a job while the laser is to close to the max or min positions you will get a ''outbound'' (out of bounds) error on the display panel.

[[Fil:Rotary attachment teeth.jpg|miniatyr]]

=== "Jaw" ===
Decide which teeth you need.
There are two types, each a set of three: expanding and contracting.
The expanding secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the inside out. (for concave glasses)
The contracting ones secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the outside in. (for convex glasses)

Both the expanding (inner diameter of work piece) and contracting (outer diameter of work piece) teeth have a work area (max/min diameter) of approx. 2.5cm to 7.5cm.

They are numbered, and marked:
* X for expanding (best for concave objects ends)
* O for contracting (best for convex objects ends)

==== How to attach ====

The teeth and the chuck key should be in a dedicated box on the tall shelf behind the door.
[[Fil:Teeth lining up in the center.jpg|miniatyr|teeth align tightly in the center]]
* To attach the teeth, place each of the three teeth in their ''correspondingly numbered slits 1, 2, 3.''
* The pointy end goes in towards the center (so that when fully tightened it forms a compact shape of three triangles)
* Hold them in place with one hand, with a finger on each.
* Use the chuck key and screw OUTWARDS. ONLY use the special chuck key that came with the rotary axis.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number two click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number three click.
* Here is the surprise: Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click again.
* Gently start screwing inwards.
* ''Screw all the way in,'' and visually check that the teeth align perfectly in the center. If they don't, your material will rotate off center, and potentially break your material, the attachment and/or the laser head. So if they don't line up perfectly, do it again.

===Place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser===
[[Fil:Connector for rotation attatchment.jpg|miniatyr|right|rotary attachment pin board]]
* Carefully place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser with the jaws (spindle, chuck, heavy end…) to the LEFT.
* Attach the coax cable from the rotary axis attachment to the connector ''inside'' the laser. When you stand in front of the laser, it is bottom right. The connector is marked with a yellow sticker: "rotary pinboard" (see image).
* From now on you must be VERY careful not to smash the laser head into stuff

Align the probe over the desired area and set focus point as normal, with .+enter.
To be super careful, drive the laser head away from the rotary axis attachment, and do a range test in an area where it will not smash into anything, should there be a … mishap. Pay careful attention to how the probe moves, and how the rotation moves. If it seems as expected, drive the laser head to the place where you want the job to begin. Note that you do not align with the ''probe'', but the laser.
 

=== Glass surface: Preparation ===
[[Fil:Red laser rotary glass damp paper towel.jpg|200px|right|miniatyr|Example wet paper towel. The towel should be more flush with the glass that in this picture.]]
Using a moist paper towel helps prevent the engraving area from becoming rough, and leads to a clear, white engraving result.
Before you start engraving, apply a moist single-layer paper towel to the glass. Make sure there are no air bubbles or overlaps. This would affect the engraved image.

We have so far had success with one ply from the two-ply towels from the bathrooms, damped liberally using a spray bottle (i.e. the fire-bottle in the laser room).
Do not spray water inside the laser.
 

===Suggested settings===
IKEA rødvinsglass, [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/lodraet-olglass-klart-glass-50209337/ IKEA beer glass], [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/oanvaend-olglass-klart-glass-70209336/ IKEA tall beer glass] raster: '''100 mm/s 50%'''

== Hvor kan du kjøpe materialer ==

Det finnes en god guide om hva slags materialer som kan brukes hos [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials AtxHackerspace].

Bitraf-medlem Peter Watz har mange års erfaring med Laser og har laget en god oversikt over materialer som er gode å bruke. Han kan også hjelpe deg med kommersielle jobber: [http://kreativ-laser.no/materialer/finer-og-treverk/ kreativ-laser.no]

=== [[Bitmart]] ===

Fra September 2015 har vi akrylplater til salgs i Bitmart, i diverse tykkelser og størrelser - til en veldig god pris.

Fra Desember 2015 har vi poppelfiner, 4mm og 6mm til salgs i Bitmart. Priser rundt 50 kr for en plate som passer i laseren.

=== Leverandorer ===

Plastcompaniet A/S på Alna, leverer akrylplater og annen plast, i større kvanta.

Man får også akrylplater på Biltema og Clas Ohlson, men da ganske dyrt.

Biltema selger "plastglass" som er Styren-plater. Disse lukter mindre enn Akryl når de skjæres, men får veldig lett stygge smeltede kanter.

Når det gjelder gravering/kutting av tre, anbefaler de som har erfaring at man skaffer seg "Flyfiner" eller "Poppelfineer". Oslo Finerfabrikk AS has dette, og mange andre materialer som kan være interessante.

Christ. Engebretsen & Søn AS holder til i Pilestredet 27 og har et godt utvalg av papp, kartong og papir https://www.tegne.no/

== Debugging / feilsøkning ==
* The laser turns on, but the laser will not fire. The LED on the laser is green.
** Remember to check out the laser at [https://p2k16.bitraf.no/#!/tool p2k16/tools]
* The fan for the red laser will not start (even if there is a green light on the rear of the fan)
** If the power has been out (fuse blow, etc), the fan for the red laser has to be turned on using the fan panel (use a ladder or long pole)

== Innkjøp ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Dokumentasjon ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

[[Red Sail Laser 100W]]

== Reparasjon ==
Feilsøking og reparasjon: Se [[Laser-vedlikehold]]

== Logg over anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing ==
[[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:Utstyr]]
[[Category:Laserkutter]] [[Category:Laser]]
[[Category:Hvordan]]

Laser

2020-08-01T20:47:18Z

Kinginamoto: /* Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser */

== Lokasjon ==
Laserkutterne er plassert i eget rom i verkstedet.
Den røde laseren er plassert nærmest inngangen til rommet (til venstre når du står foran den), den blå laseren er plassert nærmest nødutgangen (til høyre når du står foran laserkutterne).

== Bruk av laseren ==
[[Fil:20180308 210330 Laserkutting.jpg|miniatyr|Laserkuttede produkter i Bitrafs demohylle]]

=== Tilgang ===

Laserkutterne er kun tilgjengelig *for medlemmer og kontorplass-brukere* på Bitraf, altså ikke for gjester. [https://p2k12.bitraf.no/join Bli medlem!]

Maskinene er utstyrt med [[Tilgangskontroll|tilgangskontroll]], du må sjekke ut maskinen før bruk, og sjekke den inn igjen etter bruk.

Du må ha *gjennomført kurs* i grunnleggende bruk og sikkerhet før du kan bruke laseren.
Kurs legges ut på [http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/ meetup.com/bitraf] jevnlig.

Du forplikter deg også til å forlate laser-rommet rent og ryddig – uansett hvordan rommet var når du kom.

Er du medlem uten kurs, men har behov for å få [[gravering|gravert]] eller skjært noe, kontakt Thomas, [[Bruker:Jensa|Jensa]], Nikolai eller Jon.

Hvis du heller vil betale noen for å utføre en jobb kan du kontakte [[Bruker:Nikolai|Nikolai]] eller legge ut en melding på Slack eller Facebook-gruppen vår.

=== Booking ===

Laserne bookes på forhånd via en google kalender. Se her for hvordan du får tilgang til kalenderen: [[Booking|https://bitraf.no/wiki/Booking]]

=== Kommersiell bruk ===

Dersom man gjør *kommersielle jobber*, betaler man 350 NOK/time (+moms) for bruk av laseren.
Kommersiell jobb er en jobb hvor man enten får betalt for å lage noe eller gjør produksjon av noe man selger selv. Dette bidrar til kostnadene ved vedlikehold, samt for å ikke urettferdig konkurrere med andre som leverer tjenester rundt laser, og at ikke bruken blir monopolisert av noen enkelte som driver gratis masseproduksjon.

Kommersiell bruk betales normalt i [[Bitmart]] med kort. Legg inn epost så får du kvittering på epost.
Dersom du trenger en faktura, kan du istedet skriv en epost til "kasserer (at] bitraf.no" og spesifiser antall timer bruk og dato.

=== Arbeidsområde ===

Rød Laser:
680 mm * 480 mm

Blå laser:
880 mm * 570 mm

I [[Bitmart]] selges 4 mm bjørkefinér i formatene 680 mm * 480 mm og 540 mm * 480 mm. I tillegg finnes ymse andre materialer i 540x480mm. Poppelfinér var tidligere til salgs i ferdigkappa størrelser til laseren, men fås nå kun i stor plate (2440x1220mm).

=== Autolaser på felles PC ===

Autolaser är software som vi använder för att göra och sända jobb till våra lasers. Autolaser finns installerat och konfigurerat på felles PCn i laser-rummet med maskinprofiler för både RÖD och BLÅ laser.

==== MERK: lag i AutoLaser er globale ====
'''''Hvis man jobber på felles PC og bytter mellom dokumentene, så merk at lagene i Autolaser som brukes til å styre effekt og brenntid, er globale. Endrer man således ett av dem (svart, rødt, hva som helst) og så bytter til et annet dokument i Autolaser som bruker det samme laget (typisk med svart), så vil disse innstillingene også endres i alle andre dokumenter.'''''

=== Autolaser på egen PC ===

* <s>[http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp Last ned autolaser]</s> - død lenke - [http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/Download/index/l/en/id/18.html Last ned autolaser], ta den via [https://www.virustotal.com/gui/home/url virustotal.com]. Kopier av AutoLaser ligger også [https://karlsbakk.net/autolaser/ her] (last også ned med virustotal).

* Maskininställningar. För att lasern skall kutte rett vei så må man ställa in i Autolaser vilket hörn av lasern som är nollpunkten (origo). Se bilde för instruks:
[[Fil:Origo setting.jpg|miniatyr|How to set origo in Autolaser]]

* Mer information finns i [https://halk.ru/forum/resources/49/download?version=49 Manualen till Autolaser]

== Steg ==

Dette er de grunnleggende stegene man går igjennom for å lage noe med laseren.

* 1) På forhånd: Lag eller last ned et design. Exporter til DXF
* 2) PC: Importer vektorfil (DXF)
* 3) PC: Lag verktøybaner
* 4) PC: Eksporter jobben til laser
* 5) Laser: Legg i materiale
* 6) Laser: Fokuser laseren
* 7) Laser: Sett jobb Origin
* 8) Laser: Kjør jobben
* 9) Laser: Ta ut materiale

=== 1a) Lag et design ===
Du kan bruke hvilken som helst software som kan eksportere til DXF filer (vektor).
Om programmet ikke kan eksportere direkte kan man bruke Inkscape eller lignende til å konvertere.

Eksempler på programmer som folk på Bitraf bruker. Noen av disse kjøres det kurs på innimellom.

* [https://inkscape.org/en Inkscape], enkelt 2D vektor. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD], avansert 2D/3D parametrisk solid modelling. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD], programmeringspråk for parametrisk 3D. Gratis+opensource
* SketchUp, enkel 3D direct modelling. Gratis
* Rhino, avansert 2D/3D direct modelling. Studentlisens: ca 9000kr
* Adobe Illustrator, enkelt 2D vektor. 7 dagers prøvelisenser. Studentlisens: ?

=== 1b) Last ned design ===

Du finner en del laser/CNC design rundt på nettet, om ikke på langt nær like mye som for 3d-printing.
Søk for eksempel på "laser" eller "lasercut" på [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].

=== 2. Importer vektorfil ===

* Start programmet AutoLaser (ligger på skrivebordet på laptopen i laser-rummet).
* Importer filen din. File -> Import, velg fil, velg "metric"
* Du burde nå se den importerte filen i dokumentvinduet
* Verifisere at størrelsen på importert geometrien, ved å velge noe og se størrelsen (width/height) på verkstøylinja.

Du kan også dobbeltklikke på en .DXF fil i filutforskeren for å starte Autolaser.
=====Benefits and drawbacks of different imported file formats in Autolaser=====
* .DXF-files support layers but breaks all loops which can cause problems when carving. (Can sometimes be healed using "Unite near" but not always.) When exporting DXF from Rhino, use setting "Natural" - lines will not break.
* .PLT-files support closed geometry but not layers (Can be solved by exporting a file per layer and cut-and-pasting them back together in Autolaser.)

=== 3. Laging av verktøybaner ===

Merk: Instillinger for speed/power avhenger av materiale. Bruk tabellen lenger ned som utgangspunkt!

Enkel: Ett sett med instillinger (penn) i jobben

* Sjekk at all geometrien har samme farge (sort er standard).
* Dobbeltklikk på instillingene for fargen i listen "Param" i høyre sidepanel.
* Velg enten "Cut" (vektor) eller "Carve" (raster).
* Sett passende "Cut speed".
* Sett Work/Corner Power 1.
* Sett Work/Corner Power 2 til samme som 1.
* Sjekk at "Free speed" er satt til 100 mm/s

"Free Speed" (jog speed) er hastigheten når laseren er av, og hodet flytter seg mellom områder som skal lasres.

"Corner Power" er effekten i hjørner.
Ved å redusere Corner Power relativt til Work Power kan man få bedre.
Feks 10-20% lavere Corner kontra Work Power.

TODO: test og dokumenter Carve/raster opsjoner

Avansert: Flere instillinger (penner) i en jobb. Feks [[gravering]] + kutting

* Velg geometri som skal ha andre instillinger, trykk på penn (1-16) på nedre verktøylinje.
* Geometrien vil nå få en annen farge, og en ny penn-instilling vil dukke opp i listen til høyre.
* All geometri med en viss farge vil bruk instillingene for den fargen/pennen

Ofte ønsker man å gravere først, deretter kutte ut. Dette fordi bitene kan flytte seg litt når man kutter ut. Du kan velge rekkefølge på "pennene" i jobben ved å bruke "Up" og "Down" i listen.

TODO: finn ut hvordan man kan lagre og åpne prosjektfiler (inkl penne-instillinger)

=== 4. Eksportér jobben til laseren ===

* Dobbeltsjekk 1) Riktige farger på all geometri.
* Dobbeltsjekk 2) Riktig hastighet/power på hver farge.
* Sjekk at laseren er skrudd på
* Sjekk at USB kabel mellom PC og laser er koplet til
* Kople til laseren i software. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Search". Skal stå "COM6" når vellykket.
* Eksporter verktøybanene. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Download" -> "Doc to Mac". Tar noen sekunder. Laseren piper når ferdig overført.
* Den nye jobben skal nå vises som preview på laseren.

=== 5. Legg inn materiale ===

* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Kjør laserhodet litt opp. Axis -> U axis -> 20 (mm) -> Enter
* Legg i materialet. Vær forsiktig så du ikke dytter borti høydeproben på laserhodet

=== 6. Fokusering av laseren ===

Hver gang man legger inn materiale med ny tykkelse må man sette høyden på Z-aksen på nytt, for å få riktig fokus på laseren. Dette er viktig både for effektive kutt i tykke materialer, og for detaljert [[gravering]].

* Flytt hodet til der hvor materialet er for å fokusere høyden der.
* Legg vekter på materialet hvis det ikke er flatt nok. Ikke la laser hodet kollidere i vektene.
* Trykk på punktum (.) og deretter på Enter.

=== 7. Sett start-posisjon for jobben (Origin) ===

Man må velge hvor på maskinen nullpunktet for jobben skal være (Origin).
Dette vil bli posisjonen til koordinatet 0,0 i dokumentet.

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt riktig høyde/fokus!
* Kjør vognen til ønsket start posisjon.
* Trykk på origin knappen. Laseren piper for konfirmasjon.

=== 8. Kjør jobben ===

''Viktig: Du må alltid være tilstede når maskinen kjører, grunnet brannfare!''
Merk: Dersom noe uforventet oppstår, trykk på nødstoppen i front!

Hvis det slår flammer ut av materialet, slå av avsuget og ta CO2-slukkeren som står til høyre for laseren. Dra ut splinten på slukkeren, løft og rett slukkeren mot brannstedet og klem sammen håndtaket. Dette vil kvele all ild (og også deg om du prøver å puste dette inn).

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt Origin
* Sjekk at du treffer den riktige delen av materialet ved å trykke Range og deretter Enter (viser ytterkantene av omerådet du skjærer)
* Start avtrekksviften (RØD: Egen switch på laser, BLÅ: Knapp på avtrekksboxen)
* Trykk på "Start"

Når jobben er ferdig piper den.

Avansert: Pause

Du kan bruke "Pause/Run" knappen for pause, feks for å sjekke nøyere hvordan det gikk.
Den stopper umiddelbart, og man kan forsette ved å trykke den Pause igjen.
Trykk ESC for å avbryte jobben når man er i Pause modus.

Man kan endre Speed/Power innstillinger når man er i Pause. Det kan bruker for å tilpasse dersom man ser at man ikke kutter helt igjennom materiale eller gravering blir for lys/kraftig.

Endring i instillinger gjelder for en penn/lag. På slutten av ett lag vil den spørre om man ønsker å lagre endringene til fil.

=== 9. Ta ut materiale ===

* Skru av avtrekksviften
* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Åpne lokket til laseren
* Dobbeltsjekk at du har kuttet helt igjennom, og bitene er løse
* Ta ut platen. Vær forsiktig at du ikke dytter bordi autoproben på hodet!
* Fjern eventuelle biter som ligger på honeycomben

Om ikke du har fått kuttet helt igjennom kan du kjøre jobben på nytt.

== Vedlikehold ==
[[Laser-vedlikehold]]

[[Laserfilter]]

== Software ==
[[Laser-software]]

== Innstillinger for forskjellige materialer ==
Forskjellige innstillinger må brukes på forskjellige materialer.

Generellt om hastighet
* 20 mm/s ger alltid pena linjer
* 30 mm/s ger ett lætt skelvende linjer
* 40 mm/s ger merkbart skelvende linjer
* etc...

=== Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 15mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], 5mm: 9mm/sec v/60%
* Akryl (klar), 8mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (speil), fra Bitmart, 3mm: 15-20mm/sec v/100% OBS! Legg alltid speil-flaten ned, så du kutter på baksiden av speilet!
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 25 mm/s, power 100%
* Silkboard 1mm (fra Bitmart): 42 mm/s, corner power 12%, work power 20% (bruk maskeringsteip for å unngå brennmerke)
* Papir Fabriano Tiziani 160g (fra Bitmart):
** Tekst (ikke kutt): 30 mm/s, min power 1.5%, max power: 6.0
** Kutt: 30 mm/s, min power 20%, max power: 20

=== Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 10% (graverer kun i overflaten, for figurer)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 80%, Carve accuracy 0.1 mm (svært grov gravering. går nesten gjennom hele marerialet)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 40% (for tekst)
* Transperent: 100 mm/s, power 14% (for PCB-stensil. Bruk vått ark på begge sider)
* Akryl (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], 5mm: 120mm/sec horiUNI carve accuracy 0.035 v/100%

=== Kutting gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, 2mm: 9mm/sec v/100%
* MDF, 6mm: 5mm/sec v/100%
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100% (95%corner)
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 6mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar, fra [[Bitmart]]/Plastkompaniet), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (blå), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), 5mm: 8mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra Finn Løken AS, 10mm: 2mm/sec v/100%
* Styren (billigste 'plastglass' fra Biltema), 2mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Kryssfiner 3,5 mm 9 mm/s v/100%
* Polyester tekstil: 30 mm/s v/2%
* Denim tekstil (fra olabukse, sort): 30 mm/s v/15%
* Gummi 5mm (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 2.5 mm/s
* PETG 2.5 mm (Ikea Kuggis boks): 15 mm/s 100%
* Papp 3 mm: 30 mm/s v/50%
* Lær 2mm 15mm/s v/100% (95% corner) (http://www.chemsen.no/m%c3%b8belhud-anchester.html)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Cut through all: Cut 20 mm/s 30% work 20% corner (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

=== Gravering gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, vektorgravering: 100mm/sec v/20%
* Akryl, rastergravering: 300mm/sec, accuracy 0.05mm v/5%
* Kryssfiner, vektorgravering(cut) 3,5 mm 20 mm/s v/10% (Snabbare ger stygge linjer)
* Poppelfineer (Oslo Fineer), 300mm/sec: v/10%
* Lær (brunt), vektorgravering, v/1%, 30mm/s, gir fine, litt under 1mm dype snitt
* Gummi dypt for stempel (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 30mm/sec v/30%
* Mylar stensil 0.5 mm: 300 mm/s v/40%, kutter helt igjennom
* Greeting card paper, vektorgravering: 30 mm/s 5-10%
* Greeting card paper, rastergravering: 300 mm/s 15% 0.1 mm (2-way)
* Ikea rødvinsglass, raster: 100 mm/s 50%
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Change colour: Carve 150 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 15% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Carve holes through sticker but leave back: Carve 300 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 50% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

'''NB!''' Da polykarbonat/Lexan både er vanskelig å kutte med vår type laser og avgir [https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisfenol_A Bisfenol A] når det kuttes, har vi valgt å fjerne dette plastmaterialet fra listen med plasttyper godkjent for bruk på Bitraf

=== Specialanpassad fokushøjde ===

<big>Tykke material</big>

For å kutte raskest/renest mulig kan avanserte brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er i midten av materialet i stede for på toppen:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og reduser U verdien med halvparten av materialtykkelsen (default fokusavstånd ær 5.5 mm på BLÅ laser)
# Kutt sen med høyere hastighet en vanlig. Ekperimenter og dokumenter bra verdier på Wiki.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

<big>Gravering / Tynne material</big>

Før att får høyest mulig oppløsning och precision så kan brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er på toppen av materialet i stede for en bit ned i materialet:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og sett U verdien till 10 mm
# Nu kan du gravera mindre detaljer och cutta mer precist i tynna materialer som papp.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

=== Rastergravering ===

Før att rastergravering skall fungera så måste geometrin vara sluten. Prova anvænda "Unit near" om du bruker .dxf import och om det inte virker importera från en .plt fil.

Laseren kan ikke gravere gråtoner, men man kan gjøre en del triks for å emulere dette. Hvis man bare skal lage et "greit" bilde ut kan man lage et sort/hvitt bilde i et tegneprogram. Hvis dette ikke er altfor stort ( < 1500x1500 pixler? ) og man lagrer det som en 1-bit (to fargers) PNG, vil man kunne importere og gravere denne. Innstillingene som er brukt på Bitraf's sponsor-skilt (3mm hvit akryl med svart spraymaling) er: Carve 200mm/sec, Carve accuracy 0.050, Work power 25%

Hvis man trikser litt kan man lage flere slike og gravere i flere omganger for å få noe som ligner på gråtoner. Dette krever litt prøving og feiling, men hver gang man lasrer havner laseren mere ut av fokus og man får svartere og svartere brennmerker.

=== Kerf ===
Kerf<ref>[http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/what-is-laser-kerf Understanding the kerf of the laser]</ref> er den delen av materialet som laseren brenner bort, og som gir "slark" når du skal sette sammen deler. Kerf vil variere etter materialtype og -tykkelse. På Thingiverse finnes en modell<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84621 Laser Cutter Kerf Gauge]</ref> som du kan kutte ut i ønsket materiale for å finne ut nøyaktig hva kerf'en er.

=== [[Gravering]] på metaller ===
Thomas har en spray som tilhører Bitraf som kan brukes til å gravere på [[metallarbeid|metall]], både rustfritt stål og aluminium. Den heter LMM6000 og er dyr! Michael har visst også laget en DIY versjon av denne av (Glycol + Kritt)?

100% med 100 mm/s carving ser ut til å fungere bra!

== Rotary axis attachment: laser engraving and cutting round objects ==
The red laser has a rotary axis attachment. This means we can draw, engrave, and cut materials that are round.
===Important…===
<big>'''NEW guidelines: When installing the rotary axis inside the laser, place it with the chuck (spindle, heavy end, jaws, grip) to the LEFT. Why? Should you turn off and on the laser, the laser head will attempt to "home". Since one axis is now rotating, and only one axis moves the laser head, it will then "home" to the far right. IF the rotary axis thingamabob is placed with the chuck to the right, the laser head will crash into the chuck and potentially be seriously damaged.'''</big>
[[Fil:Placing rotary axis inside laser.jpg|left|thumb]]
 

===Prepare files: formulae===
The object is round. It spins at a certain speed depending on your settings. To account for this, the artwork needs to be "distorted" in the software so it will turn out correctly on the object. You need to know:
* Diameter of the object (at the place where you will engrave/cut)
* Length of the artwork

''drawing width/(object diameter / 3.14) = drawing width to use in autolaser''
===Example===
[[Fil:Example artwork.png|miniatyr|left|Example artwork]]
 
[[Fil:Example calculation and "distorting".png|miniatyr|venstre|example calculation and "distorting"]]
 
[[Fil:Tilt and mirror.png|miniatyr|venstre|tilt and mirror]]
 
[[Fil:Result.jpg|miniatyr|venstre|result]]
 

===Prepare laser===
[[Fil:Swap plugs for the rotary.jpg|miniatyr|Note the two plugs are attached to the same cable holder.]]
* Run the laser head to top right corner
* Lower the bed… a lot (U-)
* Remove the honeycomb
* Move laser head approx half way on the y axis
* TURN OFF the laser before opening the the bottom panel on the right side of the laser
* Swap connectors behind the panel (see image).
** Basically: there are two connectors (A and B) attached to each other (or rather: they come out of the same twisty-cable-holder-thing), and one is plugged in to the socket.
** Swap them
** Close the lid
** ALWAYS PUT the normal one BACK when finished. If someone didn't attend the Rotary-attachment training, they'll have NO idea why the laser isn't working.
* Turn the laser on. It should now be unable to "home" normally (go to the top right corner), as one axis now is the rotary, but will "home" on the Y axis, sending the laser head all the way over to the right side.
==== Rotation max/min ====
Even if the rotary attachment has no physical endpoints, the laser control software will have a max/and min position. You will probably want to do your work while the laser is in the middle of these points. This can be achieved by rotating the attachment using the up/down button to one end, counting the number of seconds it takes to rotate all the way to the other end, and then rotating it back approx half as many seconds as a max-min-movement takes. If you try to ''range'' or start a job while the laser is to close to the max or min positions you will get a ''outbound'' (out of bounds) error on the display panel.

[[Fil:Rotary attachment teeth.jpg|miniatyr]]

=== "Jaw" ===
Decide which teeth you need.
There are two types, each a set of three: expanding and contracting.
The expanding secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the inside out. (for concave glasses)
The contracting ones secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the outside in. (for convex glasses)

Both the expanding (inner diameter of work piece) and contracting (outer diameter of work piece) teeth have a work area (max/min diameter) of approx. 2.5cm to 7.5cm.

They are numbered, and marked:
* X for expanding (best for concave objects ends)
* O for contracting (best for convex objects ends)

==== How to attach ====

The teeth and the chuck key should be in a dedicated box on the tall shelf behind the door.
[[Fil:Teeth lining up in the center.jpg|miniatyr|teeth align tightly in the center]]
* To attach the teeth, place each of the three teeth in their ''correspondingly numbered slits 1, 2, 3.''
* The pointy end goes in towards the center (so that when fully tightened it forms a compact shape of three triangles)
* Hold them in place with one hand, with a finger on each.
* Use the chuck key and screw OUTWARDS. ONLY use the special chuck key that came with the rotary axis.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number two click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number three click.
* Here is the surprise: Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click again.
* Gently start screwing inwards.
* ''Screw all the way in,'' and visually check that the teeth align perfectly in the center. If they don't, your material will rotate off center, and potentially break your material, the attachment and/or the laser head. So if they don't line up perfectly, do it again.

===Place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser===
[[Fil:Connector for rotation attatchment.jpg|miniatyr|right|rotary attachment pin board]]
* Carefully place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser with the jaws (spindle, chuck, heavy end…) to the LEFT.
* Attach the coax cable from the rotary axis attachment to the connector ''inside'' the laser. When you stand in front of the laser, it is bottom right. The connector is marked with a yellow sticker: "rotary pinboard" (see image).
* From now on you must be VERY careful not to smash the laser head into stuff

Align the probe over the desired area and set focus point as normal, with .+enter.
To be super careful, drive the laser head away from the rotary axis attachment, and do a range test in an area where it will not smash into anything, should there be a … mishap. Pay careful attention to how the probe moves, and how the rotation moves. If it seems as expected, drive the laser head to the place where you want the job to begin. Note that you do not align with the ''probe'', but the laser.
 

=== Glass surface: Preparation ===
[[Fil:Red laser rotary glass damp paper towel.jpg|200px|right|miniatyr|Example wet paper towel. The towel should be more flush with the glass that in this picture.]]
Using a moist paper towel helps prevent the engraving area from becoming rough, and leads to a clear, white engraving result.
Before you start engraving, apply a moist single-layer paper towel to the glass. Make sure there are no air bubbles or overlaps. This would affect the engraved image.

We have so far had success with one ply from the two-ply towels from the bathrooms, damped liberally using a spray bottle (i.e. the fire-bottle in the laser room).
Do not spray water inside the laser.
 

===Suggested settings===
IKEA rødvinsglass, [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/lodraet-olglass-klart-glass-50209337/ IKEA beer glass], [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/oanvaend-olglass-klart-glass-70209336/ IKEA tall beer glass] raster: '''100 mm/s 50%'''

== Hvor kan du kjøpe materialer ==

Det finnes en god guide om hva slags materialer som kan brukes hos [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials AtxHackerspace].

Bitraf-medlem Peter Watz har mange års erfaring med Laser og har laget en god oversikt over materialer som er gode å bruke. Han kan også hjelpe deg med kommersielle jobber: [http://kreativ-laser.no/materialer/finer-og-treverk/ kreativ-laser.no]

=== [[Bitmart]] ===

Fra September 2015 har vi akrylplater til salgs i Bitmart, i diverse tykkelser og størrelser - til en veldig god pris.

Fra Desember 2015 har vi poppelfiner, 4mm og 6mm til salgs i Bitmart. Priser rundt 50 kr for en plate som passer i laseren.

=== Leverandorer ===

Plastcompaniet A/S på Alna, leverer akrylplater og annen plast, i større kvanta.

Man får også akrylplater på Biltema og Clas Ohlson, men da ganske dyrt.

Biltema selger "plastglass" som er Styren-plater. Disse lukter mindre enn Akryl når de skjæres, men får veldig lett stygge smeltede kanter.

Når det gjelder gravering/kutting av tre, anbefaler de som har erfaring at man skaffer seg "Flyfiner" eller "Poppelfineer". Oslo Finerfabrikk AS has dette, og mange andre materialer som kan være interessante.

Christ. Engebretsen & Søn AS holder til i Pilestredet 27 og har et godt utvalg av papp, kartong og papir https://www.tegne.no/

== Debugging / feilsøkning ==
* The laser turns on, but the laser will not fire. The LED on the laser is green.
** Remember to check out the laser at [https://p2k16.bitraf.no/#!/tool p2k16/tools]
* The fan for the red laser will not start (even if there is a green light on the rear of the fan)
** If the power has been out (fuse blow, etc), the fan for the red laser has to be turned on using the fan panel (use a ladder or long pole)

== Innkjøp ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Dokumentasjon ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

[[Red Sail Laser 100W]]

== Reparasjon ==
Feilsøking og reparasjon: Se [[Laser-vedlikehold]]

== Logg over anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing ==
[[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:Utstyr]]
[[Category:Laserkutter]] [[Category:Laser]]
[[Category:Hvordan]]

Laser

2020-08-01T20:45:58Z

Kinginamoto: /* Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser */

== Lokasjon ==
Laserkutterne er plassert i eget rom i verkstedet.
Den røde laseren er plassert nærmest inngangen til rommet (til venstre når du står foran den), den blå laseren er plassert nærmest nødutgangen (til høyre når du står foran laserkutterne).

== Bruk av laseren ==
[[Fil:20180308 210330 Laserkutting.jpg|miniatyr|Laserkuttede produkter i Bitrafs demohylle]]

=== Tilgang ===

Laserkutterne er kun tilgjengelig *for medlemmer og kontorplass-brukere* på Bitraf, altså ikke for gjester. [https://p2k12.bitraf.no/join Bli medlem!]

Maskinene er utstyrt med [[Tilgangskontroll|tilgangskontroll]], du må sjekke ut maskinen før bruk, og sjekke den inn igjen etter bruk.

Du må ha *gjennomført kurs* i grunnleggende bruk og sikkerhet før du kan bruke laseren.
Kurs legges ut på [http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/ meetup.com/bitraf] jevnlig.

Du forplikter deg også til å forlate laser-rommet rent og ryddig – uansett hvordan rommet var når du kom.

Er du medlem uten kurs, men har behov for å få [[gravering|gravert]] eller skjært noe, kontakt Thomas, [[Bruker:Jensa|Jensa]], Nikolai eller Jon.

Hvis du heller vil betale noen for å utføre en jobb kan du kontakte [[Bruker:Nikolai|Nikolai]] eller legge ut en melding på Slack eller Facebook-gruppen vår.

=== Booking ===

Laserne bookes på forhånd via en google kalender. Se her for hvordan du får tilgang til kalenderen: [[Booking|https://bitraf.no/wiki/Booking]]

=== Kommersiell bruk ===

Dersom man gjør *kommersielle jobber*, betaler man 350 NOK/time (+moms) for bruk av laseren.
Kommersiell jobb er en jobb hvor man enten får betalt for å lage noe eller gjør produksjon av noe man selger selv. Dette bidrar til kostnadene ved vedlikehold, samt for å ikke urettferdig konkurrere med andre som leverer tjenester rundt laser, og at ikke bruken blir monopolisert av noen enkelte som driver gratis masseproduksjon.

Kommersiell bruk betales normalt i [[Bitmart]] med kort. Legg inn epost så får du kvittering på epost.
Dersom du trenger en faktura, kan du istedet skriv en epost til "kasserer (at] bitraf.no" og spesifiser antall timer bruk og dato.

=== Arbeidsområde ===

Rød Laser:
680 mm * 480 mm

Blå laser:
880 mm * 570 mm

I [[Bitmart]] selges 4 mm bjørkefinér i formatene 680 mm * 480 mm og 540 mm * 480 mm. I tillegg finnes ymse andre materialer i 540x480mm. Poppelfinér var tidligere til salgs i ferdigkappa størrelser til laseren, men fås nå kun i stor plate (2440x1220mm).

=== Autolaser på felles PC ===

Autolaser är software som vi använder för att göra och sända jobb till våra lasers. Autolaser finns installerat och konfigurerat på felles PCn i laser-rummet med maskinprofiler för både RÖD och BLÅ laser.

==== MERK: lag i AutoLaser er globale ====
'''''Hvis man jobber på felles PC og bytter mellom dokumentene, så merk at lagene i Autolaser som brukes til å styre effekt og brenntid, er globale. Endrer man således ett av dem (svart, rødt, hva som helst) og så bytter til et annet dokument i Autolaser som bruker det samme laget (typisk med svart), så vil disse innstillingene også endres i alle andre dokumenter.'''''

=== Autolaser på egen PC ===

* <s>[http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp Last ned autolaser]</s> - død lenke - [http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/Download/index/l/en/id/18.html Last ned autolaser], ta den via [https://www.virustotal.com/gui/home/url virustotal.com]. Kopier av AutoLaser ligger også [https://karlsbakk.net/autolaser/ her] (last også ned med virustotal).

* Maskininställningar. För att lasern skall kutte rett vei så må man ställa in i Autolaser vilket hörn av lasern som är nollpunkten (origo). Se bilde för instruks:
[[Fil:Origo setting.jpg|miniatyr|How to set origo in Autolaser]]

* Mer information finns i [https://halk.ru/forum/resources/49/download?version=49 Manualen till Autolaser]

== Steg ==

Dette er de grunnleggende stegene man går igjennom for å lage noe med laseren.

* 1) På forhånd: Lag eller last ned et design. Exporter til DXF
* 2) PC: Importer vektorfil (DXF)
* 3) PC: Lag verktøybaner
* 4) PC: Eksporter jobben til laser
* 5) Laser: Legg i materiale
* 6) Laser: Fokuser laseren
* 7) Laser: Sett jobb Origin
* 8) Laser: Kjør jobben
* 9) Laser: Ta ut materiale

=== 1a) Lag et design ===
Du kan bruke hvilken som helst software som kan eksportere til DXF filer (vektor).
Om programmet ikke kan eksportere direkte kan man bruke Inkscape eller lignende til å konvertere.

Eksempler på programmer som folk på Bitraf bruker. Noen av disse kjøres det kurs på innimellom.

* [https://inkscape.org/en Inkscape], enkelt 2D vektor. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD], avansert 2D/3D parametrisk solid modelling. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD], programmeringspråk for parametrisk 3D. Gratis+opensource
* SketchUp, enkel 3D direct modelling. Gratis
* Rhino, avansert 2D/3D direct modelling. Studentlisens: ca 9000kr
* Adobe Illustrator, enkelt 2D vektor. 7 dagers prøvelisenser. Studentlisens: ?

=== 1b) Last ned design ===

Du finner en del laser/CNC design rundt på nettet, om ikke på langt nær like mye som for 3d-printing.
Søk for eksempel på "laser" eller "lasercut" på [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].

=== 2. Importer vektorfil ===

* Start programmet AutoLaser (ligger på skrivebordet på laptopen i laser-rummet).
* Importer filen din. File -> Import, velg fil, velg "metric"
* Du burde nå se den importerte filen i dokumentvinduet
* Verifisere at størrelsen på importert geometrien, ved å velge noe og se størrelsen (width/height) på verkstøylinja.

Du kan også dobbeltklikke på en .DXF fil i filutforskeren for å starte Autolaser.
=====Benefits and drawbacks of different imported file formats in Autolaser=====
* .DXF-files support layers but breaks all loops which can cause problems when carving. (Can sometimes be healed using "Unite near" but not always.) When exporting DXF from Rhino, use setting "Natural" - lines will not break.
* .PLT-files support closed geometry but not layers (Can be solved by exporting a file per layer and cut-and-pasting them back together in Autolaser.)

=== 3. Laging av verktøybaner ===

Merk: Instillinger for speed/power avhenger av materiale. Bruk tabellen lenger ned som utgangspunkt!

Enkel: Ett sett med instillinger (penn) i jobben

* Sjekk at all geometrien har samme farge (sort er standard).
* Dobbeltklikk på instillingene for fargen i listen "Param" i høyre sidepanel.
* Velg enten "Cut" (vektor) eller "Carve" (raster).
* Sett passende "Cut speed".
* Sett Work/Corner Power 1.
* Sett Work/Corner Power 2 til samme som 1.
* Sjekk at "Free speed" er satt til 100 mm/s

"Free Speed" (jog speed) er hastigheten når laseren er av, og hodet flytter seg mellom områder som skal lasres.

"Corner Power" er effekten i hjørner.
Ved å redusere Corner Power relativt til Work Power kan man få bedre.
Feks 10-20% lavere Corner kontra Work Power.

TODO: test og dokumenter Carve/raster opsjoner

Avansert: Flere instillinger (penner) i en jobb. Feks [[gravering]] + kutting

* Velg geometri som skal ha andre instillinger, trykk på penn (1-16) på nedre verktøylinje.
* Geometrien vil nå få en annen farge, og en ny penn-instilling vil dukke opp i listen til høyre.
* All geometri med en viss farge vil bruk instillingene for den fargen/pennen

Ofte ønsker man å gravere først, deretter kutte ut. Dette fordi bitene kan flytte seg litt når man kutter ut. Du kan velge rekkefølge på "pennene" i jobben ved å bruke "Up" og "Down" i listen.

TODO: finn ut hvordan man kan lagre og åpne prosjektfiler (inkl penne-instillinger)

=== 4. Eksportér jobben til laseren ===

* Dobbeltsjekk 1) Riktige farger på all geometri.
* Dobbeltsjekk 2) Riktig hastighet/power på hver farge.
* Sjekk at laseren er skrudd på
* Sjekk at USB kabel mellom PC og laser er koplet til
* Kople til laseren i software. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Search". Skal stå "COM6" når vellykket.
* Eksporter verktøybanene. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Download" -> "Doc to Mac". Tar noen sekunder. Laseren piper når ferdig overført.
* Den nye jobben skal nå vises som preview på laseren.

=== 5. Legg inn materiale ===

* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Kjør laserhodet litt opp. Axis -> U axis -> 20 (mm) -> Enter
* Legg i materialet. Vær forsiktig så du ikke dytter borti høydeproben på laserhodet

=== 6. Fokusering av laseren ===

Hver gang man legger inn materiale med ny tykkelse må man sette høyden på Z-aksen på nytt, for å få riktig fokus på laseren. Dette er viktig både for effektive kutt i tykke materialer, og for detaljert [[gravering]].

* Flytt hodet til der hvor materialet er for å fokusere høyden der.
* Legg vekter på materialet hvis det ikke er flatt nok. Ikke la laser hodet kollidere i vektene.
* Trykk på punktum (.) og deretter på Enter.

=== 7. Sett start-posisjon for jobben (Origin) ===

Man må velge hvor på maskinen nullpunktet for jobben skal være (Origin).
Dette vil bli posisjonen til koordinatet 0,0 i dokumentet.

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt riktig høyde/fokus!
* Kjør vognen til ønsket start posisjon.
* Trykk på origin knappen. Laseren piper for konfirmasjon.

=== 8. Kjør jobben ===

''Viktig: Du må alltid være tilstede når maskinen kjører, grunnet brannfare!''
Merk: Dersom noe uforventet oppstår, trykk på nødstoppen i front!

Hvis det slår flammer ut av materialet, slå av avsuget og ta CO2-slukkeren som står til høyre for laseren. Dra ut splinten på slukkeren, løft og rett slukkeren mot brannstedet og klem sammen håndtaket. Dette vil kvele all ild (og også deg om du prøver å puste dette inn).

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt Origin
* Sjekk at du treffer den riktige delen av materialet ved å trykke Range og deretter Enter (viser ytterkantene av omerådet du skjærer)
* Start avtrekksviften (RØD: Egen switch på laser, BLÅ: Knapp på avtrekksboxen)
* Trykk på "Start"

Når jobben er ferdig piper den.

Avansert: Pause

Du kan bruke "Pause/Run" knappen for pause, feks for å sjekke nøyere hvordan det gikk.
Den stopper umiddelbart, og man kan forsette ved å trykke den Pause igjen.
Trykk ESC for å avbryte jobben når man er i Pause modus.

Man kan endre Speed/Power innstillinger når man er i Pause. Det kan bruker for å tilpasse dersom man ser at man ikke kutter helt igjennom materiale eller gravering blir for lys/kraftig.

Endring i instillinger gjelder for en penn/lag. På slutten av ett lag vil den spørre om man ønsker å lagre endringene til fil.

=== 9. Ta ut materiale ===

* Skru av avtrekksviften
* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Åpne lokket til laseren
* Dobbeltsjekk at du har kuttet helt igjennom, og bitene er løse
* Ta ut platen. Vær forsiktig at du ikke dytter bordi autoproben på hodet!
* Fjern eventuelle biter som ligger på honeycomben

Om ikke du har fått kuttet helt igjennom kan du kjøre jobben på nytt.

== Vedlikehold ==
[[Laser-vedlikehold]]

[[Laserfilter]]

== Software ==
[[Laser-software]]

== Innstillinger for forskjellige materialer ==
Forskjellige innstillinger må brukes på forskjellige materialer.

Generellt om hastighet
* 20 mm/s ger alltid pena linjer
* 30 mm/s ger ett lætt skelvende linjer
* 40 mm/s ger merkbart skelvende linjer
* etc...

=== Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 15mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]], 5mm: 9mm/sec v/60%
* Akryl (klar), 8mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (speil), fra Bitmart, 3mm: 15-20mm/sec v/100% OBS! Legg alltid speil-flaten ned, så du kutter på baksiden av speilet!
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 25 mm/s, power 100%
* Silkboard 1mm (fra Bitmart): 42 mm/s, corner power 12%, work power 20% (bruk maskeringsteip for å unngå brennmerke)
* Papir Fabriano Tiziani 160g (fra Bitmart):
** Tekst (ikke kutt): 30 mm/s, min power 1.5%, max power: 6.0
** Kutt: 30 mm/s, min power 20%, max power: 20

=== Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 10% (graverer kun i overflaten, for figurer)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 80%, Carve accuracy 0.1 mm (svært grov gravering. går nesten gjennom hele marerialet)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 40% (for tekst)
* Transperent: 100 mm/s, power 14% (for PCB-stensil. Bruk vått ark på begge sider)

=== Kutting gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, 2mm: 9mm/sec v/100%
* MDF, 6mm: 5mm/sec v/100%
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100% (95%corner)
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 6mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar, fra [[Bitmart]]/Plastkompaniet), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (blå), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), 5mm: 8mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra Finn Løken AS, 10mm: 2mm/sec v/100%
* Styren (billigste 'plastglass' fra Biltema), 2mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Kryssfiner 3,5 mm 9 mm/s v/100%
* Polyester tekstil: 30 mm/s v/2%
* Denim tekstil (fra olabukse, sort): 30 mm/s v/15%
* Gummi 5mm (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 2.5 mm/s
* PETG 2.5 mm (Ikea Kuggis boks): 15 mm/s 100%
* Papp 3 mm: 30 mm/s v/50%
* Lær 2mm 15mm/s v/100% (95% corner) (http://www.chemsen.no/m%c3%b8belhud-anchester.html)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Cut through all: Cut 20 mm/s 30% work 20% corner (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

=== Gravering gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, vektorgravering: 100mm/sec v/20%
* Akryl, rastergravering: 300mm/sec, accuracy 0.05mm v/5%
* Kryssfiner, vektorgravering(cut) 3,5 mm 20 mm/s v/10% (Snabbare ger stygge linjer)
* Poppelfineer (Oslo Fineer), 300mm/sec: v/10%
* Lær (brunt), vektorgravering, v/1%, 30mm/s, gir fine, litt under 1mm dype snitt
* Gummi dypt for stempel (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 30mm/sec v/30%
* Mylar stensil 0.5 mm: 300 mm/s v/40%, kutter helt igjennom
* Greeting card paper, vektorgravering: 30 mm/s 5-10%
* Greeting card paper, rastergravering: 300 mm/s 15% 0.1 mm (2-way)
* Ikea rødvinsglass, raster: 100 mm/s 50%
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Change colour: Carve 150 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 15% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Carve holes through sticker but leave back: Carve 300 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 50% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

'''NB!''' Da polykarbonat/Lexan både er vanskelig å kutte med vår type laser og avgir [https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisfenol_A Bisfenol A] når det kuttes, har vi valgt å fjerne dette plastmaterialet fra listen med plasttyper godkjent for bruk på Bitraf

=== Specialanpassad fokushøjde ===

<big>Tykke material</big>

For å kutte raskest/renest mulig kan avanserte brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er i midten av materialet i stede for på toppen:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og reduser U verdien med halvparten av materialtykkelsen (default fokusavstånd ær 5.5 mm på BLÅ laser)
# Kutt sen med høyere hastighet en vanlig. Ekperimenter og dokumenter bra verdier på Wiki.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

<big>Gravering / Tynne material</big>

Før att får høyest mulig oppløsning och precision så kan brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er på toppen av materialet i stede for en bit ned i materialet:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og sett U verdien till 10 mm
# Nu kan du gravera mindre detaljer och cutta mer precist i tynna materialer som papp.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

=== Rastergravering ===

Før att rastergravering skall fungera så måste geometrin vara sluten. Prova anvænda "Unit near" om du bruker .dxf import och om det inte virker importera från en .plt fil.

Laseren kan ikke gravere gråtoner, men man kan gjøre en del triks for å emulere dette. Hvis man bare skal lage et "greit" bilde ut kan man lage et sort/hvitt bilde i et tegneprogram. Hvis dette ikke er altfor stort ( < 1500x1500 pixler? ) og man lagrer det som en 1-bit (to fargers) PNG, vil man kunne importere og gravere denne. Innstillingene som er brukt på Bitraf's sponsor-skilt (3mm hvit akryl med svart spraymaling) er: Carve 200mm/sec, Carve accuracy 0.050, Work power 25%

Hvis man trikser litt kan man lage flere slike og gravere i flere omganger for å få noe som ligner på gråtoner. Dette krever litt prøving og feiling, men hver gang man lasrer havner laseren mere ut av fokus og man får svartere og svartere brennmerker.

=== Kerf ===
Kerf<ref>[http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/what-is-laser-kerf Understanding the kerf of the laser]</ref> er den delen av materialet som laseren brenner bort, og som gir "slark" når du skal sette sammen deler. Kerf vil variere etter materialtype og -tykkelse. På Thingiverse finnes en modell<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84621 Laser Cutter Kerf Gauge]</ref> som du kan kutte ut i ønsket materiale for å finne ut nøyaktig hva kerf'en er.

=== [[Gravering]] på metaller ===
Thomas har en spray som tilhører Bitraf som kan brukes til å gravere på [[metallarbeid|metall]], både rustfritt stål og aluminium. Den heter LMM6000 og er dyr! Michael har visst også laget en DIY versjon av denne av (Glycol + Kritt)?

100% med 100 mm/s carving ser ut til å fungere bra!

== Rotary axis attachment: laser engraving and cutting round objects ==
The red laser has a rotary axis attachment. This means we can draw, engrave, and cut materials that are round.
===Important…===
<big>'''NEW guidelines: When installing the rotary axis inside the laser, place it with the chuck (spindle, heavy end, jaws, grip) to the LEFT. Why? Should you turn off and on the laser, the laser head will attempt to "home". Since one axis is now rotating, and only one axis moves the laser head, it will then "home" to the far right. IF the rotary axis thingamabob is placed with the chuck to the right, the laser head will crash into the chuck and potentially be seriously damaged.'''</big>
[[Fil:Placing rotary axis inside laser.jpg|left|thumb]]
 

===Prepare files: formulae===
The object is round. It spins at a certain speed depending on your settings. To account for this, the artwork needs to be "distorted" in the software so it will turn out correctly on the object. You need to know:
* Diameter of the object (at the place where you will engrave/cut)
* Length of the artwork

''drawing width/(object diameter / 3.14) = drawing width to use in autolaser''
===Example===
[[Fil:Example artwork.png|miniatyr|left|Example artwork]]
 
[[Fil:Example calculation and "distorting".png|miniatyr|venstre|example calculation and "distorting"]]
 
[[Fil:Tilt and mirror.png|miniatyr|venstre|tilt and mirror]]
 
[[Fil:Result.jpg|miniatyr|venstre|result]]
 

===Prepare laser===
[[Fil:Swap plugs for the rotary.jpg|miniatyr|Note the two plugs are attached to the same cable holder.]]
* Run the laser head to top right corner
* Lower the bed… a lot (U-)
* Remove the honeycomb
* Move laser head approx half way on the y axis
* TURN OFF the laser before opening the the bottom panel on the right side of the laser
* Swap connectors behind the panel (see image).
** Basically: there are two connectors (A and B) attached to each other (or rather: they come out of the same twisty-cable-holder-thing), and one is plugged in to the socket.
** Swap them
** Close the lid
** ALWAYS PUT the normal one BACK when finished. If someone didn't attend the Rotary-attachment training, they'll have NO idea why the laser isn't working.
* Turn the laser on. It should now be unable to "home" normally (go to the top right corner), as one axis now is the rotary, but will "home" on the Y axis, sending the laser head all the way over to the right side.
==== Rotation max/min ====
Even if the rotary attachment has no physical endpoints, the laser control software will have a max/and min position. You will probably want to do your work while the laser is in the middle of these points. This can be achieved by rotating the attachment using the up/down button to one end, counting the number of seconds it takes to rotate all the way to the other end, and then rotating it back approx half as many seconds as a max-min-movement takes. If you try to ''range'' or start a job while the laser is to close to the max or min positions you will get a ''outbound'' (out of bounds) error on the display panel.

[[Fil:Rotary attachment teeth.jpg|miniatyr]]

=== "Jaw" ===
Decide which teeth you need.
There are two types, each a set of three: expanding and contracting.
The expanding secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the inside out. (for concave glasses)
The contracting ones secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the outside in. (for convex glasses)

Both the expanding (inner diameter of work piece) and contracting (outer diameter of work piece) teeth have a work area (max/min diameter) of approx. 2.5cm to 7.5cm.

They are numbered, and marked:
* X for expanding (best for concave objects ends)
* O for contracting (best for convex objects ends)

==== How to attach ====

The teeth and the chuck key should be in a dedicated box on the tall shelf behind the door.
[[Fil:Teeth lining up in the center.jpg|miniatyr|teeth align tightly in the center]]
* To attach the teeth, place each of the three teeth in their ''correspondingly numbered slits 1, 2, 3.''
* The pointy end goes in towards the center (so that when fully tightened it forms a compact shape of three triangles)
* Hold them in place with one hand, with a finger on each.
* Use the chuck key and screw OUTWARDS. ONLY use the special chuck key that came with the rotary axis.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number two click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number three click.
* Here is the surprise: Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click again.
* Gently start screwing inwards.
* ''Screw all the way in,'' and visually check that the teeth align perfectly in the center. If they don't, your material will rotate off center, and potentially break your material, the attachment and/or the laser head. So if they don't line up perfectly, do it again.

===Place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser===
[[Fil:Connector for rotation attatchment.jpg|miniatyr|right|rotary attachment pin board]]
* Carefully place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser with the jaws (spindle, chuck, heavy end…) to the LEFT.
* Attach the coax cable from the rotary axis attachment to the connector ''inside'' the laser. When you stand in front of the laser, it is bottom right. The connector is marked with a yellow sticker: "rotary pinboard" (see image).
* From now on you must be VERY careful not to smash the laser head into stuff

Align the probe over the desired area and set focus point as normal, with .+enter.
To be super careful, drive the laser head away from the rotary axis attachment, and do a range test in an area where it will not smash into anything, should there be a … mishap. Pay careful attention to how the probe moves, and how the rotation moves. If it seems as expected, drive the laser head to the place where you want the job to begin. Note that you do not align with the ''probe'', but the laser.
 

=== Glass surface: Preparation ===
[[Fil:Red laser rotary glass damp paper towel.jpg|200px|right|miniatyr|Example wet paper towel. The towel should be more flush with the glass that in this picture.]]
Using a moist paper towel helps prevent the engraving area from becoming rough, and leads to a clear, white engraving result.
Before you start engraving, apply a moist single-layer paper towel to the glass. Make sure there are no air bubbles or overlaps. This would affect the engraved image.

We have so far had success with one ply from the two-ply towels from the bathrooms, damped liberally using a spray bottle (i.e. the fire-bottle in the laser room).
Do not spray water inside the laser.
 

===Suggested settings===
IKEA rødvinsglass, [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/lodraet-olglass-klart-glass-50209337/ IKEA beer glass], [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/oanvaend-olglass-klart-glass-70209336/ IKEA tall beer glass] raster: '''100 mm/s 50%'''

== Hvor kan du kjøpe materialer ==

Det finnes en god guide om hva slags materialer som kan brukes hos [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials AtxHackerspace].

Bitraf-medlem Peter Watz har mange års erfaring med Laser og har laget en god oversikt over materialer som er gode å bruke. Han kan også hjelpe deg med kommersielle jobber: [http://kreativ-laser.no/materialer/finer-og-treverk/ kreativ-laser.no]

=== [[Bitmart]] ===

Fra September 2015 har vi akrylplater til salgs i Bitmart, i diverse tykkelser og størrelser - til en veldig god pris.

Fra Desember 2015 har vi poppelfiner, 4mm og 6mm til salgs i Bitmart. Priser rundt 50 kr for en plate som passer i laseren.

=== Leverandorer ===

Plastcompaniet A/S på Alna, leverer akrylplater og annen plast, i større kvanta.

Man får også akrylplater på Biltema og Clas Ohlson, men da ganske dyrt.

Biltema selger "plastglass" som er Styren-plater. Disse lukter mindre enn Akryl når de skjæres, men får veldig lett stygge smeltede kanter.

Når det gjelder gravering/kutting av tre, anbefaler de som har erfaring at man skaffer seg "Flyfiner" eller "Poppelfineer". Oslo Finerfabrikk AS has dette, og mange andre materialer som kan være interessante.

Christ. Engebretsen & Søn AS holder til i Pilestredet 27 og har et godt utvalg av papp, kartong og papir https://www.tegne.no/

== Debugging / feilsøkning ==
* The laser turns on, but the laser will not fire. The LED on the laser is green.
** Remember to check out the laser at [https://p2k16.bitraf.no/#!/tool p2k16/tools]
* The fan for the red laser will not start (even if there is a green light on the rear of the fan)
** If the power has been out (fuse blow, etc), the fan for the red laser has to be turned on using the fan panel (use a ladder or long pole)

== Innkjøp ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Dokumentasjon ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

[[Red Sail Laser 100W]]

== Reparasjon ==
Feilsøking og reparasjon: Se [[Laser-vedlikehold]]

== Logg over anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing ==
[[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:Utstyr]]
[[Category:Laserkutter]] [[Category:Laser]]
[[Category:Hvordan]]

Laser

2020-08-01T20:45:28Z

Kinginamoto: /* Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser */

== Lokasjon ==
Laserkutterne er plassert i eget rom i verkstedet.
Den røde laseren er plassert nærmest inngangen til rommet (til venstre når du står foran den), den blå laseren er plassert nærmest nødutgangen (til høyre når du står foran laserkutterne).

== Bruk av laseren ==
[[Fil:20180308 210330 Laserkutting.jpg|miniatyr|Laserkuttede produkter i Bitrafs demohylle]]

=== Tilgang ===

Laserkutterne er kun tilgjengelig *for medlemmer og kontorplass-brukere* på Bitraf, altså ikke for gjester. [https://p2k12.bitraf.no/join Bli medlem!]

Maskinene er utstyrt med [[Tilgangskontroll|tilgangskontroll]], du må sjekke ut maskinen før bruk, og sjekke den inn igjen etter bruk.

Du må ha *gjennomført kurs* i grunnleggende bruk og sikkerhet før du kan bruke laseren.
Kurs legges ut på [http://www.meetup.com/bitraf/ meetup.com/bitraf] jevnlig.

Du forplikter deg også til å forlate laser-rommet rent og ryddig – uansett hvordan rommet var når du kom.

Er du medlem uten kurs, men har behov for å få [[gravering|gravert]] eller skjært noe, kontakt Thomas, [[Bruker:Jensa|Jensa]], Nikolai eller Jon.

Hvis du heller vil betale noen for å utføre en jobb kan du kontakte [[Bruker:Nikolai|Nikolai]] eller legge ut en melding på Slack eller Facebook-gruppen vår.

=== Booking ===

Laserne bookes på forhånd via en google kalender. Se her for hvordan du får tilgang til kalenderen: [[Booking|https://bitraf.no/wiki/Booking]]

=== Kommersiell bruk ===

Dersom man gjør *kommersielle jobber*, betaler man 350 NOK/time (+moms) for bruk av laseren.
Kommersiell jobb er en jobb hvor man enten får betalt for å lage noe eller gjør produksjon av noe man selger selv. Dette bidrar til kostnadene ved vedlikehold, samt for å ikke urettferdig konkurrere med andre som leverer tjenester rundt laser, og at ikke bruken blir monopolisert av noen enkelte som driver gratis masseproduksjon.

Kommersiell bruk betales normalt i [[Bitmart]] med kort. Legg inn epost så får du kvittering på epost.
Dersom du trenger en faktura, kan du istedet skriv en epost til "kasserer (at] bitraf.no" og spesifiser antall timer bruk og dato.

=== Arbeidsområde ===

Rød Laser:
680 mm * 480 mm

Blå laser:
880 mm * 570 mm

I [[Bitmart]] selges 4 mm bjørkefinér i formatene 680 mm * 480 mm og 540 mm * 480 mm. I tillegg finnes ymse andre materialer i 540x480mm. Poppelfinér var tidligere til salgs i ferdigkappa størrelser til laseren, men fås nå kun i stor plate (2440x1220mm).

=== Autolaser på felles PC ===

Autolaser är software som vi använder för att göra och sända jobb till våra lasers. Autolaser finns installerat och konfigurerat på felles PCn i laser-rummet med maskinprofiler för både RÖD och BLÅ laser.

==== MERK: lag i AutoLaser er globale ====
'''''Hvis man jobber på felles PC og bytter mellom dokumentene, så merk at lagene i Autolaser som brukes til å styre effekt og brenntid, er globale. Endrer man således ett av dem (svart, rødt, hva som helst) og så bytter til et annet dokument i Autolaser som bruker det samme laget (typisk med svart), så vil disse innstillingene også endres i alle andre dokumenter.'''''

=== Autolaser på egen PC ===

* <s>[http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/en/down.asp Last ned autolaser]</s> - død lenke - [http://www.topwisdom.com.cn/Download/index/l/en/id/18.html Last ned autolaser], ta den via [https://www.virustotal.com/gui/home/url virustotal.com]. Kopier av AutoLaser ligger også [https://karlsbakk.net/autolaser/ her] (last også ned med virustotal).

* Maskininställningar. För att lasern skall kutte rett vei så må man ställa in i Autolaser vilket hörn av lasern som är nollpunkten (origo). Se bilde för instruks:
[[Fil:Origo setting.jpg|miniatyr|How to set origo in Autolaser]]

* Mer information finns i [https://halk.ru/forum/resources/49/download?version=49 Manualen till Autolaser]

== Steg ==

Dette er de grunnleggende stegene man går igjennom for å lage noe med laseren.

* 1) På forhånd: Lag eller last ned et design. Exporter til DXF
* 2) PC: Importer vektorfil (DXF)
* 3) PC: Lag verktøybaner
* 4) PC: Eksporter jobben til laser
* 5) Laser: Legg i materiale
* 6) Laser: Fokuser laseren
* 7) Laser: Sett jobb Origin
* 8) Laser: Kjør jobben
* 9) Laser: Ta ut materiale

=== 1a) Lag et design ===
Du kan bruke hvilken som helst software som kan eksportere til DXF filer (vektor).
Om programmet ikke kan eksportere direkte kan man bruke Inkscape eller lignende til å konvertere.

Eksempler på programmer som folk på Bitraf bruker. Noen av disse kjøres det kurs på innimellom.

* [https://inkscape.org/en Inkscape], enkelt 2D vektor. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.freecadweb.org/ FreeCAD], avansert 2D/3D parametrisk solid modelling. Gratis+opensource
* [http://www.openscad.org/ OpenSCAD], programmeringspråk for parametrisk 3D. Gratis+opensource
* SketchUp, enkel 3D direct modelling. Gratis
* Rhino, avansert 2D/3D direct modelling. Studentlisens: ca 9000kr
* Adobe Illustrator, enkelt 2D vektor. 7 dagers prøvelisenser. Studentlisens: ?

=== 1b) Last ned design ===

Du finner en del laser/CNC design rundt på nettet, om ikke på langt nær like mye som for 3d-printing.
Søk for eksempel på "laser" eller "lasercut" på [http://thingiverse.com Thingiverse].

=== 2. Importer vektorfil ===

* Start programmet AutoLaser (ligger på skrivebordet på laptopen i laser-rummet).
* Importer filen din. File -> Import, velg fil, velg "metric"
* Du burde nå se den importerte filen i dokumentvinduet
* Verifisere at størrelsen på importert geometrien, ved å velge noe og se størrelsen (width/height) på verkstøylinja.

Du kan også dobbeltklikke på en .DXF fil i filutforskeren for å starte Autolaser.
=====Benefits and drawbacks of different imported file formats in Autolaser=====
* .DXF-files support layers but breaks all loops which can cause problems when carving. (Can sometimes be healed using "Unite near" but not always.) When exporting DXF from Rhino, use setting "Natural" - lines will not break.
* .PLT-files support closed geometry but not layers (Can be solved by exporting a file per layer and cut-and-pasting them back together in Autolaser.)

=== 3. Laging av verktøybaner ===

Merk: Instillinger for speed/power avhenger av materiale. Bruk tabellen lenger ned som utgangspunkt!

Enkel: Ett sett med instillinger (penn) i jobben

* Sjekk at all geometrien har samme farge (sort er standard).
* Dobbeltklikk på instillingene for fargen i listen "Param" i høyre sidepanel.
* Velg enten "Cut" (vektor) eller "Carve" (raster).
* Sett passende "Cut speed".
* Sett Work/Corner Power 1.
* Sett Work/Corner Power 2 til samme som 1.
* Sjekk at "Free speed" er satt til 100 mm/s

"Free Speed" (jog speed) er hastigheten når laseren er av, og hodet flytter seg mellom områder som skal lasres.

"Corner Power" er effekten i hjørner.
Ved å redusere Corner Power relativt til Work Power kan man få bedre.
Feks 10-20% lavere Corner kontra Work Power.

TODO: test og dokumenter Carve/raster opsjoner

Avansert: Flere instillinger (penner) i en jobb. Feks [[gravering]] + kutting

* Velg geometri som skal ha andre instillinger, trykk på penn (1-16) på nedre verktøylinje.
* Geometrien vil nå få en annen farge, og en ny penn-instilling vil dukke opp i listen til høyre.
* All geometri med en viss farge vil bruk instillingene for den fargen/pennen

Ofte ønsker man å gravere først, deretter kutte ut. Dette fordi bitene kan flytte seg litt når man kutter ut. Du kan velge rekkefølge på "pennene" i jobben ved å bruke "Up" og "Down" i listen.

TODO: finn ut hvordan man kan lagre og åpne prosjektfiler (inkl penne-instillinger)

=== 4. Eksportér jobben til laseren ===

* Dobbeltsjekk 1) Riktige farger på all geometri.
* Dobbeltsjekk 2) Riktig hastighet/power på hver farge.
* Sjekk at laseren er skrudd på
* Sjekk at USB kabel mellom PC og laser er koplet til
* Kople til laseren i software. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Search". Skal stå "COM6" når vellykket.
* Eksporter verktøybanene. Knapp i høyre sidepanel: "Download" -> "Doc to Mac". Tar noen sekunder. Laseren piper når ferdig overført.
* Den nye jobben skal nå vises som preview på laseren.

=== 5. Legg inn materiale ===

* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Kjør laserhodet litt opp. Axis -> U axis -> 20 (mm) -> Enter
* Legg i materialet. Vær forsiktig så du ikke dytter borti høydeproben på laserhodet

=== 6. Fokusering av laseren ===

Hver gang man legger inn materiale med ny tykkelse må man sette høyden på Z-aksen på nytt, for å få riktig fokus på laseren. Dette er viktig både for effektive kutt i tykke materialer, og for detaljert [[gravering]].

* Flytt hodet til der hvor materialet er for å fokusere høyden der.
* Legg vekter på materialet hvis det ikke er flatt nok. Ikke la laser hodet kollidere i vektene.
* Trykk på punktum (.) og deretter på Enter.

=== 7. Sett start-posisjon for jobben (Origin) ===

Man må velge hvor på maskinen nullpunktet for jobben skal være (Origin).
Dette vil bli posisjonen til koordinatet 0,0 i dokumentet.

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt riktig høyde/fokus!
* Kjør vognen til ønsket start posisjon.
* Trykk på origin knappen. Laseren piper for konfirmasjon.

=== 8. Kjør jobben ===

''Viktig: Du må alltid være tilstede når maskinen kjører, grunnet brannfare!''
Merk: Dersom noe uforventet oppstår, trykk på nødstoppen i front!

Hvis det slår flammer ut av materialet, slå av avsuget og ta CO2-slukkeren som står til høyre for laseren. Dra ut splinten på slukkeren, løft og rett slukkeren mot brannstedet og klem sammen håndtaket. Dette vil kvele all ild (og også deg om du prøver å puste dette inn).

* Dobbeltsjekk at du har satt Origin
* Sjekk at du treffer den riktige delen av materialet ved å trykke Range og deretter Enter (viser ytterkantene av omerådet du skjærer)
* Start avtrekksviften (RØD: Egen switch på laser, BLÅ: Knapp på avtrekksboxen)
* Trykk på "Start"

Når jobben er ferdig piper den.

Avansert: Pause

Du kan bruke "Pause/Run" knappen for pause, feks for å sjekke nøyere hvordan det gikk.
Den stopper umiddelbart, og man kan forsette ved å trykke den Pause igjen.
Trykk ESC for å avbryte jobben når man er i Pause modus.

Man kan endre Speed/Power innstillinger når man er i Pause. Det kan bruker for å tilpasse dersom man ser at man ikke kutter helt igjennom materiale eller gravering blir for lys/kraftig.

Endring i instillinger gjelder for en penn/lag. På slutten av ett lag vil den spørre om man ønsker å lagre endringene til fil.

=== 9. Ta ut materiale ===

* Skru av avtrekksviften
* Kjør laserhodet til siden/hjørne ved å bruke piltastene
* Åpne lokket til laseren
* Dobbeltsjekk at du har kuttet helt igjennom, og bitene er løse
* Ta ut platen. Vær forsiktig at du ikke dytter bordi autoproben på hodet!
* Fjern eventuelle biter som ligger på honeycomben

Om ikke du har fått kuttet helt igjennom kan du kjøre jobben på nytt.

== Vedlikehold ==
[[Laser-vedlikehold]]

[[Laserfilter]]

== Software ==
[[Laser-software]]

== Innstillinger for forskjellige materialer ==
Forskjellige innstillinger må brukes på forskjellige materialer.

Generellt om hastighet
* 20 mm/s ger alltid pena linjer
* 30 mm/s ger ett lætt skelvende linjer
* 40 mm/s ger merkbart skelvende linjer
* etc...

=== Kutting ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 15mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (to farge), fra [[Bitmart]), 5mm: 9mm/sec v/60%
* Akryl (klar), 8mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (speil), fra Bitmart, 3mm: 15-20mm/sec v/100% OBS! Legg alltid speil-flaten ned, så du kutter på baksiden av speilet!
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 25 mm/s, power 100%
* Silkboard 1mm (fra Bitmart): 42 mm/s, corner power 12%, work power 20% (bruk maskeringsteip for å unngå brennmerke)
* Papir Fabriano Tiziani 160g (fra Bitmart):
** Tekst (ikke kutt): 30 mm/s, min power 1.5%, max power: 6.0
** Kutt: 30 mm/s, min power 20%, max power: 20

=== Gravering ny BLÅ 100W laser ===
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 10% (graverer kun i overflaten, for figurer)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 80%, Carve accuracy 0.1 mm (svært grov gravering. går nesten gjennom hele marerialet)
* Poppelfiner 4mm: 300 mm/s, power 40% (for tekst)
* Transperent: 100 mm/s, power 14% (for PCB-stensil. Bruk vått ark på begge sider)

=== Kutting gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, 2mm: 9mm/sec v/100%
* MDF, 6mm: 5mm/sec v/100%
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100% (95%corner)
* Poppelfinér (Oslo Finérfabrikk), 6mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar, fra [[Bitmart]]/Plastkompaniet), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (blå), 3mm: 12mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra [[Bitmart]]/ biltema), 4mm: 10mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), 5mm: 8mm/sec v/100%
* Akryl (klar), fra Finn Løken AS, 10mm: 2mm/sec v/100%
* Styren (billigste 'plastglass' fra Biltema), 2mm: 7mm/sec v/100%
* Kryssfiner 3,5 mm 9 mm/s v/100%
* Polyester tekstil: 30 mm/s v/2%
* Denim tekstil (fra olabukse, sort): 30 mm/s v/15%
* Gummi 5mm (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 2.5 mm/s
* PETG 2.5 mm (Ikea Kuggis boks): 15 mm/s 100%
* Papp 3 mm: 30 mm/s v/50%
* Lær 2mm 15mm/s v/100% (95% corner) (http://www.chemsen.no/m%c3%b8belhud-anchester.html)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Cut through all: Cut 20 mm/s 30% work 20% corner (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

=== Gravering gammel RØD 60W laser ===
* MDF, vektorgravering: 100mm/sec v/20%
* Akryl, rastergravering: 300mm/sec, accuracy 0.05mm v/5%
* Kryssfiner, vektorgravering(cut) 3,5 mm 20 mm/s v/10% (Snabbare ger stygge linjer)
* Poppelfineer (Oslo Fineer), 300mm/sec: v/10%
* Lær (brunt), vektorgravering, v/1%, 30mm/s, gir fine, litt under 1mm dype snitt
* Gummi dypt for stempel (Clas Ohlson sparkelspade): 30mm/sec v/30%
* Mylar stensil 0.5 mm: 300 mm/s v/40%, kutter helt igjennom
* Greeting card paper, vektorgravering: 30 mm/s 5-10%
* Greeting card paper, rastergravering: 300 mm/s 15% 0.1 mm (2-way)
* Ikea rødvinsglass, raster: 100 mm/s 50%
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Change colour: Carve 150 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 15% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)
* Laserable Flexible Plastics BLACK/WHITE sheets - Carve holes through sticker but leave back: Carve 300 mm/s horiz unidir, 0.1mm res, 50% (TODO: Test moving focus height to top)

'''NB!''' Da polykarbonat/Lexan både er vanskelig å kutte med vår type laser og avgir [https://no.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisfenol_A Bisfenol A] når det kuttes, har vi valgt å fjerne dette plastmaterialet fra listen med plasttyper godkjent for bruk på Bitraf

=== Specialanpassad fokushøjde ===

<big>Tykke material</big>

For å kutte raskest/renest mulig kan avanserte brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er i midten av materialet i stede for på toppen:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og reduser U verdien med halvparten av materialtykkelsen (default fokusavstånd ær 5.5 mm på BLÅ laser)
# Kutt sen med høyere hastighet en vanlig. Ekperimenter og dokumenter bra verdier på Wiki.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

<big>Gravering / Tynne material</big>

Før att får høyest mulig oppløsning och precision så kan brukere manuelt og midlertidig justere høyden (U-axis) slik at fokuspunktet er på toppen av materialet i stede for en bit ned i materialet:
# Fokuser som vanlig (. -> ENTER)
# Trykk AXIS og sett U verdien till 10 mm
# Nu kan du gravera mindre detaljer och cutta mer precist i tynna materialer som papp.
# Fokuser som vanlig for å gå tilbake til standardinnstillninger. (. -> ENTER)

=== Rastergravering ===

Før att rastergravering skall fungera så måste geometrin vara sluten. Prova anvænda "Unit near" om du bruker .dxf import och om det inte virker importera från en .plt fil.

Laseren kan ikke gravere gråtoner, men man kan gjøre en del triks for å emulere dette. Hvis man bare skal lage et "greit" bilde ut kan man lage et sort/hvitt bilde i et tegneprogram. Hvis dette ikke er altfor stort ( < 1500x1500 pixler? ) og man lagrer det som en 1-bit (to fargers) PNG, vil man kunne importere og gravere denne. Innstillingene som er brukt på Bitraf's sponsor-skilt (3mm hvit akryl med svart spraymaling) er: Carve 200mm/sec, Carve accuracy 0.050, Work power 25%

Hvis man trikser litt kan man lage flere slike og gravere i flere omganger for å få noe som ligner på gråtoner. Dette krever litt prøving og feiling, men hver gang man lasrer havner laseren mere ut av fokus og man får svartere og svartere brennmerker.

=== Kerf ===
Kerf<ref>[http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/what-is-laser-kerf Understanding the kerf of the laser]</ref> er den delen av materialet som laseren brenner bort, og som gir "slark" når du skal sette sammen deler. Kerf vil variere etter materialtype og -tykkelse. På Thingiverse finnes en modell<ref>[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:84621 Laser Cutter Kerf Gauge]</ref> som du kan kutte ut i ønsket materiale for å finne ut nøyaktig hva kerf'en er.

=== [[Gravering]] på metaller ===
Thomas har en spray som tilhører Bitraf som kan brukes til å gravere på [[metallarbeid|metall]], både rustfritt stål og aluminium. Den heter LMM6000 og er dyr! Michael har visst også laget en DIY versjon av denne av (Glycol + Kritt)?

100% med 100 mm/s carving ser ut til å fungere bra!

== Rotary axis attachment: laser engraving and cutting round objects ==
The red laser has a rotary axis attachment. This means we can draw, engrave, and cut materials that are round.
===Important…===
<big>'''NEW guidelines: When installing the rotary axis inside the laser, place it with the chuck (spindle, heavy end, jaws, grip) to the LEFT. Why? Should you turn off and on the laser, the laser head will attempt to "home". Since one axis is now rotating, and only one axis moves the laser head, it will then "home" to the far right. IF the rotary axis thingamabob is placed with the chuck to the right, the laser head will crash into the chuck and potentially be seriously damaged.'''</big>
[[Fil:Placing rotary axis inside laser.jpg|left|thumb]]
 

===Prepare files: formulae===
The object is round. It spins at a certain speed depending on your settings. To account for this, the artwork needs to be "distorted" in the software so it will turn out correctly on the object. You need to know:
* Diameter of the object (at the place where you will engrave/cut)
* Length of the artwork

''drawing width/(object diameter / 3.14) = drawing width to use in autolaser''
===Example===
[[Fil:Example artwork.png|miniatyr|left|Example artwork]]
 
[[Fil:Example calculation and "distorting".png|miniatyr|venstre|example calculation and "distorting"]]
 
[[Fil:Tilt and mirror.png|miniatyr|venstre|tilt and mirror]]
 
[[Fil:Result.jpg|miniatyr|venstre|result]]
 

===Prepare laser===
[[Fil:Swap plugs for the rotary.jpg|miniatyr|Note the two plugs are attached to the same cable holder.]]
* Run the laser head to top right corner
* Lower the bed… a lot (U-)
* Remove the honeycomb
* Move laser head approx half way on the y axis
* TURN OFF the laser before opening the the bottom panel on the right side of the laser
* Swap connectors behind the panel (see image).
** Basically: there are two connectors (A and B) attached to each other (or rather: they come out of the same twisty-cable-holder-thing), and one is plugged in to the socket.
** Swap them
** Close the lid
** ALWAYS PUT the normal one BACK when finished. If someone didn't attend the Rotary-attachment training, they'll have NO idea why the laser isn't working.
* Turn the laser on. It should now be unable to "home" normally (go to the top right corner), as one axis now is the rotary, but will "home" on the Y axis, sending the laser head all the way over to the right side.
==== Rotation max/min ====
Even if the rotary attachment has no physical endpoints, the laser control software will have a max/and min position. You will probably want to do your work while the laser is in the middle of these points. This can be achieved by rotating the attachment using the up/down button to one end, counting the number of seconds it takes to rotate all the way to the other end, and then rotating it back approx half as many seconds as a max-min-movement takes. If you try to ''range'' or start a job while the laser is to close to the max or min positions you will get a ''outbound'' (out of bounds) error on the display panel.

[[Fil:Rotary attachment teeth.jpg|miniatyr]]

=== "Jaw" ===
Decide which teeth you need.
There are two types, each a set of three: expanding and contracting.
The expanding secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the inside out. (for concave glasses)
The contracting ones secures the object to the spindle by pushing from the outside in. (for convex glasses)

Both the expanding (inner diameter of work piece) and contracting (outer diameter of work piece) teeth have a work area (max/min diameter) of approx. 2.5cm to 7.5cm.

They are numbered, and marked:
* X for expanding (best for concave objects ends)
* O for contracting (best for convex objects ends)

==== How to attach ====

The teeth and the chuck key should be in a dedicated box on the tall shelf behind the door.
[[Fil:Teeth lining up in the center.jpg|miniatyr|teeth align tightly in the center]]
* To attach the teeth, place each of the three teeth in their ''correspondingly numbered slits 1, 2, 3.''
* The pointy end goes in towards the center (so that when fully tightened it forms a compact shape of three triangles)
* Hold them in place with one hand, with a finger on each.
* Use the chuck key and screw OUTWARDS. ONLY use the special chuck key that came with the rotary axis.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number two click.
* Keep screwing outwards until you feel number three click.
* Here is the surprise: Keep screwing outwards until you feel number one click again.
* Gently start screwing inwards.
* ''Screw all the way in,'' and visually check that the teeth align perfectly in the center. If they don't, your material will rotate off center, and potentially break your material, the attachment and/or the laser head. So if they don't line up perfectly, do it again.

===Place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser===
[[Fil:Connector for rotation attatchment.jpg|miniatyr|right|rotary attachment pin board]]
* Carefully place the rotary axis attachment inside the laser with the jaws (spindle, chuck, heavy end…) to the LEFT.
* Attach the coax cable from the rotary axis attachment to the connector ''inside'' the laser. When you stand in front of the laser, it is bottom right. The connector is marked with a yellow sticker: "rotary pinboard" (see image).
* From now on you must be VERY careful not to smash the laser head into stuff

Align the probe over the desired area and set focus point as normal, with .+enter.
To be super careful, drive the laser head away from the rotary axis attachment, and do a range test in an area where it will not smash into anything, should there be a … mishap. Pay careful attention to how the probe moves, and how the rotation moves. If it seems as expected, drive the laser head to the place where you want the job to begin. Note that you do not align with the ''probe'', but the laser.
 

=== Glass surface: Preparation ===
[[Fil:Red laser rotary glass damp paper towel.jpg|200px|right|miniatyr|Example wet paper towel. The towel should be more flush with the glass that in this picture.]]
Using a moist paper towel helps prevent the engraving area from becoming rough, and leads to a clear, white engraving result.
Before you start engraving, apply a moist single-layer paper towel to the glass. Make sure there are no air bubbles or overlaps. This would affect the engraved image.

We have so far had success with one ply from the two-ply towels from the bathrooms, damped liberally using a spray bottle (i.e. the fire-bottle in the laser room).
Do not spray water inside the laser.
 

===Suggested settings===
IKEA rødvinsglass, [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/lodraet-olglass-klart-glass-50209337/ IKEA beer glass], [https://www.ikea.com/no/no/p/oanvaend-olglass-klart-glass-70209336/ IKEA tall beer glass] raster: '''100 mm/s 50%'''

== Hvor kan du kjøpe materialer ==

Det finnes en god guide om hva slags materialer som kan brukes hos [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials AtxHackerspace].

Bitraf-medlem Peter Watz har mange års erfaring med Laser og har laget en god oversikt over materialer som er gode å bruke. Han kan også hjelpe deg med kommersielle jobber: [http://kreativ-laser.no/materialer/finer-og-treverk/ kreativ-laser.no]

=== [[Bitmart]] ===

Fra September 2015 har vi akrylplater til salgs i Bitmart, i diverse tykkelser og størrelser - til en veldig god pris.

Fra Desember 2015 har vi poppelfiner, 4mm og 6mm til salgs i Bitmart. Priser rundt 50 kr for en plate som passer i laseren.

=== Leverandorer ===

Plastcompaniet A/S på Alna, leverer akrylplater og annen plast, i større kvanta.

Man får også akrylplater på Biltema og Clas Ohlson, men da ganske dyrt.

Biltema selger "plastglass" som er Styren-plater. Disse lukter mindre enn Akryl når de skjæres, men får veldig lett stygge smeltede kanter.

Når det gjelder gravering/kutting av tre, anbefaler de som har erfaring at man skaffer seg "Flyfiner" eller "Poppelfineer". Oslo Finerfabrikk AS has dette, og mange andre materialer som kan være interessante.

Christ. Engebretsen & Søn AS holder til i Pilestredet 27 og har et godt utvalg av papp, kartong og papir https://www.tegne.no/

== Debugging / feilsøkning ==
* The laser turns on, but the laser will not fire. The LED on the laser is green.
** Remember to check out the laser at [https://p2k16.bitraf.no/#!/tool p2k16/tools]
* The fan for the red laser will not start (even if there is a green light on the rear of the fan)
** If the power has been out (fuse blow, etc), the fan for the red laser has to be turned on using the fan panel (use a ladder or long pole)

== Innkjøp ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Dokumentasjon ==
Se [[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

[[Red Sail Laser 100W]]

== Reparasjon ==
Feilsøking og reparasjon: Se [[Laser-vedlikehold]]

== Logg over anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing ==
[[Laser - Logg, anskaffelse, oppsett, kontroll og testing]]

== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:Utstyr]]
[[Category:Laserkutter]] [[Category:Laser]]
[[Category:Hvordan]]

VCarve

2020-02-15T20:07:37Z

Kinginamoto: /* OSX */

Vi bruker '''VCarve Pro'''<ref>[http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve.htm VCarve]</ref> fra Vectric<ref>[http://www.vectric.com/ Vectric]</ref> som verktøy for å lage toolpaths til Shopbot'en, fordi det er dette programmet som ShopBot<ref>[http://www.shopbottools.com/ ShopBot]</ref> leverer med / anbefaler. Enklere design kan også lages rett i VCarve Pro.

== Kurs ==
Bitrafmedlemmer holder regelmessig kurs i grunnleggende CNC-teori og bruk av VCarve for Shopbot.

[https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1yE2ZAthcDL0GUp_6uIqDUKWAdFcZyrXJJtVbfx651mk/edit?usp=sharing Kursmaterialet finnes her]

== Lisens ==
Bitraf har [http://www.vectric.com/makerspace.html Makerspace licens]på Vcarve Pro.
Lisensmodellen til VCarve tillater ikke at man lager klar verktøybaner på en annen maskin hvor bare trial-versjon er installert. Man må gjøre klar filene på en maskin som har fullversjon av VCarve installert. Vi har tre maskiner med fullversion stående på bitraf, en står i freserummet.

== Workflow ==
# Lasta ned trial version av Vcarve pro [http://www.vectric.com/products/vcarve/trial.html hær]
# Installera och starta programmet
# Under meny "Help" > "About Vcarve Pro" Lægg in produknykkel før bitrafs Makerspace licens: A8C83-918CE-D03D6-D0388-C7CF7-DD493-987B0
# Laga ditt project, spara filen i dropbox
# Bruk bitrafs maskiner med fullversion før att laga verktygbanor av din fil
# Fres

=== Tool library ===
Standard tool library før shopbot lagt av Jens Dyvik med [https://github.com/fellesverkstedet/Bark-beetle-parametric-toolpaths Bark beetle]

Last ned och importera till Vcarve:
[https://github.com/Jaknil/CNC_resources/raw/master/vcarve-tool-library-with-shopbot-defaults-from-jens.tool vcarve-tool-library-with-shopbot-defaults-from-jens.tool]

Tools kan importeres når du lager toolpaths. Under tool velg:
* Select... > Import... > Velg nedlasted fil > Merge [Yes]
Da vil de importerte toolsa ligge under "ShopBot defaults"

=== OSX ===
I OSX kan windows kjøres med VirtualBox, hvor vi kan installere vcarve. Da er det mulig å kjøre både osx og windows samtidig.

# Last ned og installer VirtualBox fra https://www.virtualbox.org/
# Last ned Windows for utviklere fra https://developer.microsoft.com/en-us/microsoft-edge/tools/vms/ Dette er ett VM fra Microsoft for å teste nettsider i IE11, men funker fint til å kjøre Vcarve også (imaget slutter å virke etter 90 dager og må installeres på nytt)
# Unzip VM og åpne IE11 - Win81.ovf. Filen skal åpnes i VirtualBox.
# Start windows VM
# Installer Vcarve i windows

For å fjerne tastatur og muslåsing i windows, trykk venstre cmd-tast (til vestre for space).
For å starte og avslutte fullskjerm, klikk cmd+f

=== Importere dxf-fil fra Inkscape ===
Denne informasjonen gjelder med Inkscape v0.91

I Inkscape kan man eksportere en svg-fil til dxf (Autocad R14) formatet. Dette kan man åpne i Vcarve.

.svg kan också brukes direkt men ger sæmre resultat med "hackiga" och ojæmna cirklar!

Huskeliste for eksport fra Inkscape
* Merke alle objekter og gjøre om disse til paths.
* Ikke huke av for LWPOLYLINES i dialogen for dxf, ellers vil tegningen ikke overføres i riktig skala. Man kan bruke mm som 'base unit'.

Når man åpner dxf-filen i VCarve, bevares ikke dimensjonene for arbeidsstykket, så disse målene må man angi, samt tykkelsen på arbeidsstykket. NB! Ikke bruk "scale with dimensions", eller vil skaleringen bli feil.

Tegningen vil gjerne bli skjevt plassert i forhold til plassering i Inkscape. Dette kan rettes på ved å bruke verktøyet "arrange to workpiece", og velge "adjust to all sides".

=== Bearbeide tegningen ===
Man kan bruke verktøyet "fillets" for å lage 'dogbone" utkravinger på innvendige hjørner. Her skal man angi verktøyets radius, og ikke dets diameter!

=== Kalkulere toolpaths ===
NB! Man kan kalkulere optimal 'feedrate' (hastighet som fresen beveger seg med) hvis man har informasjon om ideell 'chip-load' for aktuell verktøy/drillbit og materialet man skal frese. Ulike verktøy-produsenter/leverandører har legger ut denne informasjonen på nettet.

Det følgende er funksjoner skrevet i [http://winpython.sourceforge.net/ Python3] for å regne ut ulike parametre for en toolpath. Denne koden kan også lastes ned fra [https://github.com/TobiSan5/CNC GitHub].

i_data = {
"rpm": 0, #ex. :RPM: 15000 - 18000
"cl_mm": 0.0, #cut load mm, ex. 0.38
"fr_mmin": 0.0, #feed rate mm/min, ex. 80
"n_teeth": 0, #no of teeth, ex. 1 for single flute
"cut_depth": 1.0 #cut-depth in times of bit diameter
#reduces chip if bigger than 1.0
}

data = {}
data.update(i_data)
RPM = data["rpm"]
T = data["n_teeth"]
reduce_r = 1.0 - (data["cut_depth"] - 1) * 0.25
CL = data["cl_mm"] * reduce_r
FR = data["fr_mmin"]

def get_rpm():
return 1000 * FR / (T * CL)

def get_chipload_mm():
return reduce_r * 1000 * FR / (RPM * T)

deg get_feedrate_mm():
return RPM * T * CL / 1000

def get_n_teeth():
return 1000 * FR / (RPM * CL)

=== Lagre toolpaths ===
Det kan være lurt å lagre hver toolpath i en separat fil. Man må da huke av for kun den toolpath som man vil lagre, og trykke på knappen for "save toolpath to file".

== Bunntekst ==
== Se også ==
* [[ShopBot]]
== Referanser ==
<references/>

[[Category:CNC]][[Category:Fresing]]
[[Category:Programvare]]

Table Saw

2019-03-04T14:36:58Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. '''The only requirement is to provide your own dust mask''', these can be purchased from Bitmart from 35kr if you do not have your own. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

== Access ==

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle' of users who can 'checkout' the key to the machine. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the machine key in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

Stock is the piece of material you are cutting. There are a few things to check before cutting your stock...

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in''' (Just hit the red power switch cover to make sure)

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback, as well as there being no good reason too.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T19:16:39Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

== Access ==

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle' of users who can 'checkout' the key to the machine. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the machine key in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

Stock is the piece of material you are cutting. There are a few things to check before cutting your stock...

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in''' (Just hit the red power switch cover to make sure)

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback, as well as there being no good reason too.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T19:15:17Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

== Access ==

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle' of users who can 'checkout' the key to the machine. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the machine key in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

Stock is the piece of material you are cutting. There are a few things to check before cutting your stock...

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback, as well as there being no good reason too.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T19:13:58Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

== Access ==

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle' of users who can 'checkout' the key to the machine. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the machine key in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

Stock is the piece of material you are cutting. There are a few things to check before cutting your stock...

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T19:08:42Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

== Access ==

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle' of users who can 'checkout' the key to the machine. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the machine key in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

Stock is the piece of material you are cutting. There are a few things to check before cutting your stock...

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T19:05:24Z

Kinginamoto: /* Stock */

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:55:55Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, and to instill confidence in your ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, and put into use every time you use the table saw. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:54:53Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices, for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine, instilling confidence any our ability to use the table saw. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:49:55Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving knife and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:49:03Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failure to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with it as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. It's purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The guard may be removed and the riving knife pushed down to the same height height as the blade - for example to cut grooves or dados. This is achieved by raising the blade height to maximum, then pushing down on the riving knife. Simply pull upwards on the riving knife to raise it above the height of the blade to reattach the guard. Alignment of the riving knife should be checked before and after use to ensure proper stock feed and to check whether the bolts holding it in place are still tight. It is natural for these to loosen over time.

The riving knife '''MUST NOT be removed in any circumstances''' - as removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:37:19Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary (store it under the table saw surface on the right hand side) and it MUST be put back on after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade).

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failures to complete these tasks will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:34:27Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw on the right hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failures to complete these tasks will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:17:49Z

Kinginamoto: /* After you have used the table saw */

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

If you have removed the guard, changed the blade or in any other way modified the machine for your use it is imperative to return the table saw to the default configuration - standard Bitraf blade, riving and blade aligned and in place, all accessories put back and checked in (if needs be) and properly cleaned.

You MUST clean up thoroughly after yourself, not only to ensure safety, also to show a good example to other members and to complete your responsibilities. Creating a culture like this transfers to all aspects and areas of Bitraf making a better place for everyone.

'Check in' the tool in p2k16 for the next user to check out.

Repeated failures to complete these tasks will result in table saw access being revoked.

Report any problems or breakages to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:12:14Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

- '''If using the 'Grr ripper' ensure the stock is dust free''' (to make sure there's no slipping on the stock)

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:10:23Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to dado - the difference between the two is that a groove is milled with grain, while a dado is milled across the grain

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T14:03:53Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A long, narrow cut or depression in the material

; Grr Ripper : A pushblock that helps when ripping long stock, cutting small parts, preventing kickback, protecting hands and enabling cleaner cutting. It is very important to clean the rubber gripping pads with denatured alcohol '''after every use''' to keep the material clean and sticky. Swabs and bin are in the workshop for this purpose. You must dust off the stock to ensure there is no slipping of the Grr Ripper. The Grr Ripper has to be checked out with the 'tool checkout system' and can be used with the router table, the table saw and the band saw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6yx8fZaIEw

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Push Saw/Push block : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick/saw/block is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T13:39:19Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Crosscut sled : A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90° to the blade. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A long, narrow cut or depression in the material

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Saw : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to cuts. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T13:37:13Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A long, narrow cut or depression in the material

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Saw : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to crosscuts. A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90°. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T13:36:34Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : Crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Dado : A rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A long, narrow cut or depression in the material

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre cut refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Saw : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to crosscuts. A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90°. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-03-01T13:34:47Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

== Before plugging in the table saw ==

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

=== Questions? Problems? ===
Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

== Stock ==

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

== Kickback ==

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

== Do's and don'ts of table saw usage ==

=== Before using the table saw ===
- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

=== Using the table saw ===
- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

=== After you have used the table saw ===

Cleaning

Restore default configuration

Report problems / breakage

== Glossary of terms ==
This section contains a glossary of terms relevant to this subject.

; Crosscutting : crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

; Dado : a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

; Feed rate : How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

; Groove : A long, narrow cut or depression in the material

; Kick-back : Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

; Mitre : A mitre cut refers to an angled cut on the face of a piece of stock, usually for two structures that will be joined to create a corner, which would then be called a mitre joint. A true mitre joint requires two pieces to be cut at 45 degree angles, so when they are joined the corner created will be 90 degrees. However, a mitre joint can also be created from other angles. To safely cut mitres you should use the mitre gauge, which is stored on the right hand side of the table saw underneath the cutting surface. This slides in the runners either side of the blade and can adjusted +/- 60°.

; Pitch : A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

; Push Stick/Saw : A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

; Ripping : The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

; Riving Knife : A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

; Runners : The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence.

; Sled : A sled rides in the runner grooves, and is used to add versatility and repeatability to crosscuts. A crosscut sled has a fence that's mounted exactly 90°. You can build sleds for many different angle or jig operations. You can also add stops and clamps to a sled - for example, to cut other angles or even to rip small parts. You can also quickly crosscut many parts of the same length simply by clamping a stop block (any small scrap piece of wood) to the sled's fence. A sled can ride in a single runner like a miter gauge, but many designs use two runner tracks. Because both the stock and the offcut move with the sled and are backed by a fence perpendicular to the blade, there is a much smaller chance of kickback than with a miter gauge, and neither the workpiece nor the offcut will have tearout as the blade exits the piece.

; Stock : The piece of material you are cutting.

; True edge : A perfectly straight side of stock.

[[Category:Utstyr]] [[Category:Bosch]] [[Category:GTS 10 XC]]

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:46:34Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard store it under the table saw not he left hand side in the designated area (so it is not lost or damaged). When finished using the table saw you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Runners''' - The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:13:18Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Runners''' - The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:12:34Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Runners''' - The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:11:51Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24tooth ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Runners''' - The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:11:01Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to runners or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Runners''' - The grooves either side of the blade sunk into the table saw surface that the mitre guide/sleds run in. They are perfectly parallel to the blade so are perfect with which to check the alignment of the fence

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:06:41Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- '''MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc,''' as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- '''Must have 1 true edge if ripping''', if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- '''The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back'''

- '''Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut''' (ie rip or crosscut)

- '''Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device'''

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back are hand injuries - where the stock pulls the users hand across the moving saw blade - and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to mitre channels or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:04:21Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order after use.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc, as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- Must have 1 true edge if ripping, if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back

- Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut (ie rip or crosscut)

- Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back is hand injuries where the stock pulls the users hand across the saw blade because it moves so fast and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to mitre channels or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:02:59Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is repeatedly not thoroughly cleaned or left in proper order.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc, as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- Must have 1 true edge if ripping, if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back

- Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut (ie rip or crosscut)

- Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back is hand injuries where the stock pulls the users hand across the saw blade because it moves so fast and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to mitre channels or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T21:01:18Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is not left in proper order or cleaned up after yourself repeatedly.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- '''Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn''' when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- '''Correct clothing/hair''' (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- '''Floor clean and free of debris''' (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- '''Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris?''' (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). '''Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust?''' (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- '''Does the fence clamp down properly''' or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- '''Blade turns freely''' (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- '''Sideways movement in blade?''' (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- '''No debris in fence/blade area''' (could become projectiles during use)

- '''Check guard is in place and in proper condition.''' (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- '''Check alignment and condition of riving knife''' (in line with blade)

- '''Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary'''. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- '''Check blade is parallel to runners''' (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. '''Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade''' (as the blade tilts left)

- '''Is it the right machine for the task?''' The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc, as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- Must have 1 true edge if ripping, if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back

- Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut (ie rip or crosscut)

- Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back is hand injuries where the stock pulls the users hand across the saw blade because it moves so fast and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to mitre channels or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:59:08Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is not left in proper order or cleaned up after yourself repeatedly.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- Correct clothing/hair (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- Floor clean and free of debris (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris? (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust? (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- Does the fence clamp down properly or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- Blade turns freely (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- Sideways movement in blade (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- No debris in fence/blade area (could become projectiles during use)

- Check guard is in place and in proper condition. (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- Check alignment and condition of riving knife (in line with blade)

- Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- Check blade is parallel to runners (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade (as the blade tilts left)

- Is it the right machine for the task? The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc, as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- Must have 1 true edge if ripping, if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back

- Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut (ie rip or crosscut)

- Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back is hand injuries where the stock pulls the users hand across the saw blade because it moves so fast and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to mitre channels or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard when possible''', if you do remove the guard you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user and complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- '''NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade'''. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- '''NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock''', if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- '''NEVER back a board out of a cut'''. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- '''NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while it's in motion'''

- '''NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running''', switch off the machine first

- '''NEVER leave the saw running unattended''' If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- '''If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade''' to complete your responsibilities

- '''NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade'''.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:35:51Z

Kinginamoto:

{{otherlang
|no=Bordsag
}}
Bitraf provides a Bosch GTS10XC table saw for members to use, upon completion of a safety course. This course is necessary for everyone who wants access, whether a beginner or experienced user. As useful as they are, table saws are very dangerous and should always be treated with the respect they deserve. The intention of the course is to develop safe working practices for the safety of you, others in the workshop, and the machine. This knowledge you absolutely must know, putting it into use every time you use the table saw will instill confidence in your ability to use the saw and keep Bitraf great for everyone. Always remember, there is no such thing as a minor table saw accident. If you are uncomfortable making any kind of cut, then DO NOT DO IT. It's that simple.

Please see <big>'Glossary of terms'</big> below for any unknown words in the following paragraphs.

Access to the table saw is via the p2k16 'Tool Checkout System' in the workshop. Once you pass the course satisfactorily your username will be added to the tablesaw 'circle'. Your usage is logged and once you have checked out the tool in your name it is YOUR responsibility. You MUST clean and return the machine to it's 'as new' original state (i.e riving knife & guard attached and aligned, original blade fitted, push stick and tools in correct location, machine as clean as it can be) once finished. If you do not have time to clean up after yourself then you should not use the machine. Even single, one-time cuts should be cleaned up as you are creating risk for the next user, as well as causing another member to use their time to clean your mess. Doing this helps to create a culture within Bitraf that benefits everybody. Table saw access can be revoked if the tool is not left in proper order or cleaned up after yourself repeatedly.

NEVER let another member use the machine while checked out in your name, irrespective of whether they have completed the safety course. You must unplug and check the machine key back in if you are not using it anymore (and obviously clean it, replace any parts you have changed and clean the floor thoroughly) ready for the next user.

<BIG>BEFORE PLUGGING IN THE TABLE SAW</BIG>

Things to check/consider before plugging in the table saw. Why do these before plugging in the machine? Because it's totally safe. Bitraf has no injury liability for you, so your safety is YOUR responsibility. No electricity means nothing can happen. There is always a chance of malfunction/miscommunication, no matter how small.

- Safety gear, MUST wear eye, ear and dust protection. Gloves should NOT be worn when using the table saw (loss of tactile feel, some gloves loose enough for saw to grab. Better a splinter than chopped off fingers)

- Correct clothing/hair (NO long sleeves, no ties, no jewellery, long hair tied back)

- Floor clean and free of debris (tripping or sliding into a running, or even stopped, saw blade will really hurt!

- Tabletop clean and free of dust/debris? (dirty/rough surface requires more force/increases friction to push stock through blade/lifts stock slightly (kickback possibility). Are the runners for the crosscut sled free of dust? (could become obstructed thus not slide smoothly/flat)

- Does the fence clamp down properly or is there dust obstructing the locking mechanism?

- Blade turns freely (no debris thrown into face on start up)

- Sideways movement in blade (previous user may have changed blades and not tightened etc)

- No debris in fence/blade area (could become projectiles during use)

- Check guard is in place and in proper condition. (reduces risk to you). You may remove the guard if absolutely necessary and it MUST be put back after your use ready for the next user.

- Check alignment and condition of riving knife (in line with blade)

- Check condition/correct saw blade for material, report and change if necessary. A damaged blade could result in kick-back/damage to you/machine/stock. Every blade has a purpose and should only be used for that task. Using the wrong blade will not only produce a less than premium cut, it may increase the danger level of the operation. The standard Bitraf blade is a 24T ripping blade, for wood ONLY. Members can purchase and use their own 254mm blades on the table saw, but MUST put the original Bitraf blade back on the machine once finished with their blade.

- Check blade is parallel to runners (use long metal rule) and 90° to table (use engineers square) if cutting at 90°. Adjust the angle if cutting a bevel and ensure the fence is on the right side of the blade (as the blade tilts left)

- Is it the right machine for the task? The bandsaw might be better for ripping. A router might be better for running a dado or groove. A plunge saw on a track might be better for breaking down sheet goods. Consider which tool is best for the situation before making the cut.

Any problems/reports/questions about the table saw or associated can be directed to Thomas Winther, Nikolai Kolstad or Yoshi.

<big>STOCK</big>

- MUST be free from nails, screws, stones, etc, as they could become projectiles and damage you or the blade, could also prevent stock from sliding flat on the table saw bed. Use a magnet to check the stock for internal broken nails/screws.

- Must have 1 true edge if ripping, if both sides of stock are not straight it will move sideways between blade and rip fence and cause potential kick-back. You can use a jointing jig (as of today 28/2/19 Bitraf does not have one - will be updated when one is made) to true one edge of the stock to use against the fence for cutting the parallel edge.

- The stock must be flat, anything warped, twisted, cupped or bent is very likely to be kicked back

- Correct blade must be used for the stock material and type of cut (ie rip or crosscut)

- Round stock should not be cut unless adequately supported and held in position with a gripping device

<big>KICKBACK</big>

The most common danger with table saw usage is ‘kick-back’. Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. One of the reasons kick-back is so dangerous is that it happens in a split second - far too quickly to react to. Over 35,000 people are treated each year from table saw injuries in the US alone with kick-back contributing to over 70% of them. The two main causes of injury from kick-back is hand injuries where the stock pulls the users hand across the saw blade because it moves so fast and head and body trauma from stock propelled at nearly 150kph. If kick-back occurs there’s a reason for it - it’s not the saw being temperamental, it’s usually because of operator error or problems with the stock. Kick-back is not a risk you have to learn to accept when using a table saw, since you can easily prevent this. By understanding the causes, you can counter the forces involved and manoeuvre your stock with increased safety. Don’t let your saw demonstrate kick-back to you - there are many videos on Youtube showing the horrors!

Part of knowing how to prevent kickback is by understanding why it happens.

Causes include:

- '''Improperly fed stock''' (pressure at one corner of stock causing rotation, bottom surface of wood gets caught on saw teeth and is thrown in direction the blade is turning)
Use riving knife, use correct tools (push stick/push saw) and hand position, push stock in correct place

- '''Fence not parallel to saw blade''' (fence angled inwards slightly towards blade - causes edge of stock to press against rising rear teeth of saw blade).
Align rip fence parallel to blade. Some woodworkers angle the fence away from the blade a tiny amount at the rear of the blade to remove the potential for kickback without adversely affecting the workpiece.

- '''Cutting wood with knots''' (flaws are more likely to create pinching/extra friction and therefore kickback).
Check stock before cutting, slow down feed rate when approaching knots, anticipate and increase downward pressure on stock to prevent stock riding up and possibly kicking back. Do not push harder. If running sound of cut changes it is a marker that there may be a knot.

- '''Cutting painted wood''' (increases friction)
Sand paint off first, reduce feed speed if you feel the stock pinching or hear the running sounds change.

- '''Stock that is bent/warped/cupped/twisted'''
Change stock where possible, true one edge or surface, reduce feed rate, be aware kick-back could occur

- '''Stock with no true edge'''.
Use a jointing jig to true one edge, never attempt freehand cut to get a straight edge

- '''Damp stock'''
Be aware that wet sawdust will increase friction and take necessary precautions

- '''Dull blade'''
While it may seem counterintuitive, dull blades are more dangerous than sharp blades. It takes a little time to get a feel for. At some point, you will realise you have to push much harder than you used to for simple cuts like ripping. Friction and heat increase, resulting in more burning on woods that didn’t burn before. You will notice more tearout on your cuts. Dull blades are usually caused by a build up of sap on blade from pitch woods (Pine etc)
Remove and clean blade or change blade. Never clean the blade while running

- '''Using a bent, broken or warped saw blade''' (Heat from prior misuse can warp blade)
You will have discovered this from the checks you performed before even plugging in the table saw, report to Thomas, Nikolai or Yoshi and change the blade if possible

'''NB:''' There is no kickback from the cut piece on the ‘open’ side of the blade (ie the other side of the blade from the fence) - it just stops when it's loose

<big>DO's and DON'Ts of TABLE SAW USAGE</big>

'''Before using the table saw;'''

- '''FIRST THING TO CHECK''' - Everything in the 'Before plugging in the table saw' section above

- '''Check the Power Switch is OFF before plugging in'''

- '''Adjust height of blade''' (half a tooth above stock, max 6mm)

- '''Adjust fence, check it is parallel''' to mitre channels or toe-out a tad to reduce chance of kick-back. To align the fence correctly, mark one tooth, rotate it to the fore, and measure its distance from the fence. Next, rotate the tooth aft, and perform the same measurement. (Using the same tooth as reference removes blade warp from the equation.) Adjust the fence until the measurements match and lock down securely

- '''Check push-stick is within easy reach and check the condition'''

- '''NEVER turn on saw while the blade is touching stock'''

- '''Check no-one is behind you'''

- '''NEVER use the table saw if tired or under the influence'''

- '''Prepare the space in the carpenters workshop''', cutting a 1.5m long sheet of plywood requires at least 1.5m behind the blade and over 1.5m in front of the blade to be able to safely make a cut. Don’t realise half way through a cut you don’t have the space

- '''ALWAYS prepare additional support at infeed and outfeed areas for longer/wider stock'''. If you cut a large piece of stock that’s not fully supported underneath, it may twist or bow, causing the timber to twist against the blade which may result in kickback and possibly cause stock to split or break. If the table is not big enough for the stock you are cutting it is advisable to ask someone experienced to assist you or build a platform of some kind to help support it. The Bosch GTS10XC has 300mm extra of crosscut support and 480mm extra outfeed support available.

'''Using the table saw'''

- '''Concentrate!''' Keep full attention at all times on kick-back zone, blade, stock, fence and where your hands are

- '''ALWAYS use the guard if you can''', if you do remove it you MUST replace it when finished working for the next user

- '''NEVER freehand cut''', always use mitre/crosscut sled for crosscuts and rip fence for ripping. Freehand cuts cause crooked cuts and potential kickback

- '''Wherever possible, avoid standing with your body in line with the blade'''. (because of the possibility of kick-back) Normally, stock wider than 20cm stand to right of the blade, less than 20cm wide stand to the left and use push-stick.

- '''NEVER put your hands in line with the saw blade''', or reach over or behind the saw blade until it has stopped turning.

- '''ALWAYS use a push stick/push saw''' when making a rip less than 300mm in length or feeding the last 300mm of longer stock.

- '''NEVER cut more than one piece of stock at a time'''

- '''Avoid awkward positions''' such as crossing arms/ overreaching/unbalanced feet

- '''Feed stock only as fast as it will go''' with ease, maintaining a firm grip

- '''Don't overload the motor by trying to cut material that is too thick, heavy, or dense'''. If the blade extends 79mm above the table doesn't mean the motor can handle cutting 79mm solid wood, especially if the cut is long. Make deeper cuts with multiple passes, raising the blade a little more with each pass. Make each pass at a cutting depth that the saw can handle. When the blade is buried in the stock the saw must work harder to evacuate waste. So even though the saw will cut 2cm easily don’t cut 2cm out of a 3cm piece of wood.

- '''When ripping, apply feed pressure to stock between blade and fence'''. Hook your thumb behind the board and keep your little finger in contact with the fence to rip boards 15cm and wider. Concentrate on keeping the edge of the board in full contact with the fence while you push it through the blade at a slow, steady rate. Push the stock completely past the blade and riving knife

- NEVER release the stock until it is past the saw blade. Doing so is an invitation for kick-back as it is possible for the blade to grab the part of stock that has not yet gone by

- NEVER reach behind the blade and pull the stock, if someone is assisting you with large stock make sure they only support the weight of the stock and NOT pull or lift the stock

- NEVER back a board out of a cut. If you misfeed stock you will probably hear a change in the saw noise and can act accordingly

- NEVER remove pieces in or around the blade while in motion

- NEVER adjust the height or angle of blade or the fence while the table saw is running, switch off the machine first

- NEVER leave the saw running unattended. If you no longer use it, you have to unplug it and check the key back into the p2k16 tool system

- If you use your own blade you MUST put back the original Bitraf blade

- NEVER place the workpiece on top of a moving blade.

<big>GLOSSARY OF TERMS</big>

'''Crosscutting''' - crosscutting is the action of cutting wood ACROSS the grain, rather than with the grain. A blade that excels at crosscutting will be poor for ripping. A good crosscutting blade is designed to provide ultra-smooth cuts going across the grain without splintering or burning. Generally, more teeth equals a better cut. A 254mm (10 inch) cross cutting blade should have 60 to 80 teeth.

'''Dado''' - a rectangular or square 'slot' cut in the side of one board so that another board may be fitted into it - usually at right angles. Very similar to grooves - the difference between the two is that a dado is milled across grain, while a groove is milled with the grain

'''Feed rate''' - How quickly and how much pressure you are applying to the stock when pushing through the saw blade. Feed stock only as fast as it will go with ease, maintaining a firm grip with hand or push stick(s)/saw depending on width of stock.

'''Kick-back''' - Kick-back is the term for stock that suddenly and without warning is propelled back towards the user at great speed. It is the most common way to get injured using a table saw.

'''Pitch''' - A highly viscous substance of plant (or synthetic) origin. Pitch produced from plants is also known as resin. Pitch is not sap - all trees produce sap to a considerable degree, but resin exists in the domain of trees that belong to the Pinaceae family - woods like pine, fir and cedar. Over time, pitch builds up on the cutting edges of saw blades when cutting these woods. This effectively coats the edges, making the blade act as though it is dull.

'''Push Stick/Saw''' - A safety device used when working with the table saw. The purpose of a push stick is to help the user safely manoeuvre a workpiece, keeping it flat against the machine table or fence while it is being cut. Sometimes it is safer to use multiple push sticks and there are many different shapes that may be of better use for different size cuts and safety requirements.

'''Ripping''' - The action of cutting wood WITH/ALONG the grain, rather than across the grain. A blade that excels at ripping will be poor for cross cutting. A good 254mm (10inch) ripping blade will have only 20 to 30 teeth. A good ripping blade leaves ultra-smooth edges.

'''Riving Knife''' - A riving knife is a safety device that sits behind the blade and rises and falls with the blade as the cut depth is changed. The arched shape closely mirrors the blade curve to minimise the gap between the two. Its purpose is to keep the two halves of the stock, as it is cut, from springing back together and binding on the blade, allowing the saw to cut much easier due to the lack of resistance. It also keeps the stock against the fence to deny it access to the rising rear saw teeth - helping to avoid the possibility of kick-back. The guard attaches to the riving knife on this particular model of table saw, which may interfere with certain types of cut. The riving knife may be removed if absolutely necessary for these purposes - please be aware that removal of this safety device SIGNIFICANTLY increases the risk of kickback and MUST be put back and aligned correctly before checking the machine key back in for the safety of the next user and for you to demonstrate the required responsibility of using the table saw.

'''Stock''' - The piece of material you are cutting.

'''True edge''' - A perfectly straight side of stock

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:29:40Z

Kinginamoto:

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:29:22Z

Kinginamoto:

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:25:54Z

Kinginamoto:

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:24:54Z

Kinginamoto:

Table Saw

2019-02-28T20:23:25Z

Kinginamoto: